Bheemashakar-----jyotirlinga

Nearly 140 km from Pune ,in the direction of Nasik is Bheemashankar,shrine of Lord Shiva and also one of the twelve jyotirlingas.It is said that after killing the demon Tripurasur,Lord Shiva sat on these hills for taking rest.In our mythological references this is described as one of the most fierce battles ever fought.The streams of sweat running down shiva's body gave birth to river bheemarathi.Like bhagirathi emerging from shiva's locks this river is also revered and most of the religious places of Maharashtra are situated on the bank of this river.originating from these hills of sahyadri Bheema flows southwards and mingles with krishna near Raichoor.In Pandharpur the river is known as Chandrabhaga.
Coming back to Bheemashankar temple,it's a modest structure in black stone.but the neatness and fineness of the sculpture stand unaffected by the weathering extremes of times.The temple dates back to eighteenth century.The temple complex houses various small temples of other Gods and Goddesses.There is a kund near temple .It is said that water in this kund comes from bheema river which snakes it's way to kund under the rocks and hills.All round the year pilgrims come to pay their homage to this seat of lord shiva but during shravan month ,the hills and forest around it reverberate with the continuous chants of om namo shivay..............the incessant rain ,the foggy forset,slippery rocks ,nothing deters devotees as they line up for hours for darshan and worship of swayambhoo shivlinga.
Besides the religious and mythological importance ,Bheemashakar allures the adventure loving trekkers and the nature's tapestry changing with season is intoxicating.
  I have once been to Bheemashankar during mansoon the dense mystique forests,the clouds walking beside me,the lashing rain,the pounding streams, every thing is still etched in my memory.It really felt like witnessing the raudra roop of lord shiva.But this time when we visited Bheemashankar last week the scenes were painted in different colours.It was quiet,colourful,smiling with benevolence.As the vehicle started climbing the hills nature started unfolding it's panoramas.The distant misty mountains were melting in the arms of flossy clouds.The blue ,the white at that end looked  dreamy.Lined on both the sides of road were bright blue ,mellow violet.sparkling yellow,white,pink coloured wild flowers.Nodding and dancing on the tune of wind the flowers looked like pretty little girls welcoming us ,wrapped in sweet smiles.In between hills and road stretched the lush green fields and meadows.The shepherds with their herds and a stick on shoulders looked peaceful ,in perfect harmony with nature.
As we climbed higher the tall trees walked close to us.their erect stately persona somehow looked very reassuring.as if trying to say........as long as we are there you can enjoy the bliss of cool.balmy air.the blues of sky,the greens of fields. you can have all as we are there with you.During mansoon we come across a roaring,gurgling waterfall after every half a kilometer or so but during this sunny day of october we could not witness waterfalls though we came across one or two trikling streams on the way. The one near the tea shop on the way was quite a lovely sight .
The Bheemashankar temple is midst the forest.These forests are home to many wild animals and is protected place for them.Bheemashankar has a wild life sacntuary too.Though its difficult to sight one while going to the temple.The forest stretches on both sides of the path leading to temple. narrow,muddy tracks lead to dense forest branching off the main guarded path leading to temple.we ventured into one of these.it laid to a clearing between tall trees.here was a small temple,a jal kund and few idols of unknown gods and goddesses under the open expanse of sky.beyond it on still higher altitude were tall,erect trees closely guarding the sactity of wilderness.often trekkers camp near the jungles.
The most spectular scene was behind devi kamalja mandir.From the height of approximately 3000 ft.,the villages in the valley below appeared almost flattened.Whole valley was immersed in the clouds.A translucent haze hung over the green expanse .Sloping down the hills ,from pinnacles to the valley ,were the streams of bright yellow flowers.In fact all around sprinkled in between the greenary these tiny yellow flowers imparted the valley it's magical beauty.They were every where............running down the hills encircling the valley,flanking the narrow track on either side,dancing on the precipices,at the feet of soaring trees,midst the clusters of bushes.there were flowers of myraid colours as well but yellow reigned the scene undisputedly. sonaki .painted the valley with golden hues.yes ,this tiny ,lively flower is known as sonaki in marathi The quiet here was engulfing.The only sound was buzzing of bees.All four of us were mesmerized by the beauty ,the magnificience before us.sons and father were busy clicking the shot and I as usual was sipping it drop by drop ,flower by flower.Here we met Blue Mormon,the elegent butterfly.we could not capture it in pic as it flutters every where with smooth swing of wings but seldom sits still.there were other species of butterflies but the place is famous for blue mormons.
Bheemashankar is very well connected to Pune and Nasik .People sometimes visit Bheemashankar on a days trip by chartered taxis or own vehicles but on the ways are various resorts.one resort the blue mormon is hardly 6 or 7 km. from the temple.state transport bus also goes upto temple.various food joints and snack bars are there.fresh.hot KHOA is speciality of the place.not to be missed item.
If you are headed from Pune to Nasik or vice versa plan to include a visit to Bheemashankar .It's definitely worth visiting.

the main shrine of bheemashankar temple with deepstambh in foreground.

the shani temple at the premises

carvings on the temple

carvings on the temple

a temple in the nearby forest.

a stream on way

on way to bheemashankar....through the clouds.

entrance of the temple

the calling of.....deep forests around the temple...

a sonaki couple...

tasting the sonaki

a dam on way.

the golden pastures

golden valley

quiet-cloudy pastures

floating clouds

bonus of the trip- sonaki


all the pictures are copyrighted by sunder iyer and shubham sunder

SHANI SIGNAPUR___ABODE OF SHANI DEV

Shani Singnapur is a village located in Ahmednagar district of Maharashtra.It is about 70 km from shirdi and usually people visiting from faraway places combine both the divine places.
As the road turns from Shirdi for Shani Singnapur the scene changes dramatically.on both the sides of road are lush green fields of sugarcane and after almost every half kilometer or so is installed a sugacane crashing machine .Direct from the fields, under the shadow of big canopy of trees, midst the green ,savouring the juice is a delightful refreshing experience.
The presiding diety of Shani Singnapur is Shaneswar maharaj or Shanidev.He is personification of the planet saturn.There is no temple there and the black  stone swayambhu Shani dev stands there majestically under the vast blue expanse of sky.The spectcle is simply overpowering.
Only male devotees are permitted to climb the platform on which stands the idol of shani maharaj.Ladies can enter the premises but are not permitted to climb the platform. The devotees who want to pay offerings to god here have to first take a bath (in public bathrooms) and then pray wearing only lungis/vestis/mundus..................no upper cloth is permitted .
Big compound with many shops lined is there near the temple.Parking of vehicle is allowed inside this compound.Bathrooms are also located here only.lungis are available in the shops.rather provided with the offerings.Ofcourse you are supposed to return these.If you want you can purchase new ones which one can carry with him.
Any attempt to build a temple sheltering  the black stone pillar jutting out of the earth has not been successful.It is told that every time it was tried some or other catastrophy had fallen.There is a temple beside the platform of shani maharaj but it stands uncovered..mythologically it is believed that shanidev is son of God Sun and he wants always to be bathed by his (sun)blessings ..............hence he prefers to stand uncovered.
another unique feature of the village shani shingnapur is the houses without doors and windowpans.Even the shops have no shutters and doors.It is said that any attempt to put doors etc has always ended into some or other kind of misfortune for the person trying to do so.People believe that no theft or dacoity can ever occur in the place as miscreants have to bear wrath of Shani Dev.Its overwhelming to experience the power of faith .from the times unknown this belief is surviving.The place is truly ruled by Shani Maharaj.
Shani Shingnapur is one of the most revered shrine of Shani Bhagwan.It's proximity to Shirdi makes it easy to reach.It's worth visiting this otherwise incospicuous hamlet simply to witness and experience the charisma of faith.



a wandering hermit in the premises ...........



the majestic gate which leads to the long covered corridors leading to the shrine..........



the devotees after the bath .the nearby roads are full of devotees .the whole place as if painted in saffron..........


this is where a big basket is kept and all the offerings except the mustard oil has to be left here only.later on same can be collected.



photography near the shrine is prohibited......a glimpse of the platform from outside.devotees approaching for offering mustard oil to Shani Dev...........


another viewof the main gate .from the side gate we can have a glimpse of the platform in the open courtyard.



another group of devotees proceeding towards shrine with their guide............


in the hope of prasadam outside temple wall............





those little devotees were simply adoring.with musturd oil bottles in hands they walk towards shrine.........


shops selling the essentials.........no doors ,no shutters.even the rooms on first floor only curtains hang ........doors?no,not at all.


a close look at one of the shops.it's all red and orange here also............vibrantly coloured.........



the temple top from the market compound.this temple stands close to the shrine............


a house in the village.the plank is kept to keep the stray dogs away as the entrance does not have any door.


another home..........all these were at the side of road and this is the front view and main entrance of the home.



the little master was all set to proceed for school.he saw sunder focussing his camera on the door and there he was in front of his home striking a pose to oblige the cameraman..................



the hearth and the warmth..........home is where mother is............

all the pictures have copyright of sunder iyer.

© namitasachan., all rights reserved.

LUCKNOW RESIDENCY

It was a warm cozy winter afternoon. The one with  sparkling blue sky smiling benignly upon us while the bright green  grass nods invitingly. We entered the premises of British Residency in Lucknow after a long time.

Even when we were on the ticket window,  I started noticing the changes. The premises looked cleaner and the buildings..........the ruins more shapely and arranged than they used to be say about  ten years back. Repairs work was going on few of them. I had a mixed feeling. I was happy that steps are being taken to preserve history for posterity but then the sprucing and  brushing up of ruins have some how or other lessened the feel of romance with antiquity. No, it's not that the facade of buildings is being changed .The archeological department is taking full care of maintaining the original form of buildings. Perhaps as they were just after the siege  and attack in1857. There is no other way out. If the time and weather were allowed to take their toll on the ruins without any intervention from we mortals, after some time they might be completely obliterated from the face of earth, but I missed those crumbling almost papery ruins, those withered, blackened walls, may be the romance in me found it easier to conjure up the images of the past while wandering midst those haunted looking ruins.

See, I was to take you to the tour of British Residency in lucknow and here I am rumbling incessantly about my sentiments. let us start from the right point .

During 1775, the capital of Awadh was shifted from Faizabad to Lucknow. The then nawab of Avadh, Asafuddaula started construction of British Residency on a green hill on the banks of Gomti.This was to house the British representative in the court of Awadh Sir Lawrence Henry. Construction of Residency was completed by nawab Sadat Ali Khan, the successor of Nawab Asafuddaula. Gradually many buildings were erected around in addition to the main Residency building and this turned into a beautiful European settlement.

However during sepoy mutiny of 1857 which is also known as first war of independence of India, this beautiful complex sprawling in almost 33 acres was carnaged badly. The walls still bear the scars of the battle and canonball pock marks on those grand walls. The roofless ruins stand silent witness to the war that was fought, the pain that was endured and the valour that was displayed by both the sides.

 By the mid of 18th century British had acquired a very strong hold in India.The last emasculated nawab of India Wazid Ali Shah was packed off to Calcutta.The unrest was gradually brewing up among the Indian sepoys in the army but this turn of the history ignited the fuel. The sepoy mutiny which started in Meerut spread rapidly to lucknow. It is said that almost every European in lucknow at that time took shelter in the Residency. Indian soldiers besieged Residency and the was led by Begum Hazarat Mahal. All the supplies were cut and roads to the Residency were blocked by mutineers.The siege continued for almost five months. In the meantime epidemic spread in the Residency and many of them there including kids and  women lost their lives, many of the soldiers laid down their lives defending the occupants of Residency.

The mutiny was quashed when British General Collin Campbell arrived with his force. After the siege,  the Union Jack atop Residency became the only flag of British empire which was not lowered even at sunset, of course till the independence of india.

Let me take you to a literally picturesque tour of some of the structures of the  Residency................the main building, the banquette hall, Dr.Fayrer's house, besides begum kothi, a mosque and imambara. Few of the them must have been added after the  independence. There is a museum and a cemetery as well a commorative piller erected by the Britishers in memory of the Indian sepoys who defended Residency along with their British counterparts.

 

The fire place at the first floor level. It still retains a few signs of it's marble finishing 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The fountain at  the entrance hall of the banquet building

 

 

 

 

 

 

An outside view of a side of the banquett hall building

 

 

All the above pics are the different views of the banquet hall building. This is the most imposing of all the structures in the area. It was constructed by nawab sadat ali khan. Presently all the structures at residency are open to sky, no ceilings, no roof, but let your imagination take a flight and you can see the the sparkling chandeliers hanging from the ceiling, the life size mirrors on the wall, the silk and zari embroidered furnishing in the state apartments and spacious saloons

 

 

 

 

Entrance to Dr.Fayer's house. He was the surgeon at residency  during the period of the siege. This is the building where Sir Henry Lawrance succumbed to his injuries after being mortally wounded during the battle.

 

The name plate still shines................ 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The mosque and the imambara 

 

Imambara under repair........... 

 

 

 

Begum kothi........................... 

 

The museum.......... 

 

 

The top of the main building..................... 

 

The marks of shelling.................. 

 

 

The main building which was originally a three storey structure. It was in the basement of this building that the women and children took shelter during siege.

 

 The tall trees, the manicured lawns, the shady grooves, the wild grass near the boundary wall, the sunlight peeping down stealthily through the canopies of shady trees, the long wavy unpaved pathways leading to far off corners, sitting on a bench under a huge neem tree listening to the drone of bees,  I was transported to the period before the siege. The rhythmically moving wind as if struck the piano keys and I could almost see the swirling gowns in that still stately ball room. Suddenly a screeching crow broke my reverie and made me smile indulgently. Those young couples walking hand in hand, sitting in some cozy corners, on that broken wall, standing under the tree, scattered almost everywhere in that sprawling premises of the Residency, as if to assure .........beyond the histories of blood and war, dreams live on.... 

 

 (All the pictures are copyrighted by sunder iyer)

© namitasachan., all rights reserved.