Whispering peace

The day was folding its wings slowly. The golden rays were gradually retreating to the shadowy darkness of dense cedar jungle. Tall elegant cedars on both sides of curvy hill road stood rapt in eloquent silence. We were on our way to Jageshwar temples group{ about 36 Km from Almora in Uttarakhand}
We could hear the soft murmuring of water. A group of centuries old temples came in view on one side of road. There were one or two others scattered on either side of road. It felt like being on the threshold of long passed era of history, steeped in spiritualism and mysticism.
By the time we reached the Kumaon Mandal guest house sun had set. Standing on the balcony in front of our room we looked at the cluster of temples. The only road of small hamlet of Jageshwar ran lazily from one side of temples while river Jat Ganga flowed encircling the temples from back . Tall devdars standing erect on the hills beyond the river stream turned blackish green as the lengthening shadows of dusk engulfed them. Whole aura was permeated with a mystique feel. Looking at the temples I could feel a calling from beyond.
Away from the chaotic mess of routine life, the tranquillity in the valley acted like balm on tired mind. Now and then sound of bells in the temple echoed in the valley. Gradually the shapes and contours of temples merged in the darkness. The river, calling in a soulful voice could be heard more distinctly. And then slowly the full round moon stepped in above the majestic trees of devdar.
Bathed in moon light the hills, the small houses, the temples, the river, the forests all looked ethereal. On left side of the guest house on a high hill was this huge leafless tree. Its round solid trunk holding the naked braches and branchlets spreading in all the direction looked majestic. It’s whole being sparkled in silvery grandeur. The conical tip of the shrine below it glittered like a source of light to illuminate the darkness within.
Nothing more celestial could have I conceived. The tranquil wind blew very gently. No, not even blew it was whispering, breathing peace to every thing around.
It was the night preceding Holi festival. Some where in the village people were singing the folk songs,accompanied by the beats of drums. Riding the air currents the songfull voices reached us……big round moon floating in the sky, the transparent silvery blue moonlight layer spread all over, the wind permeated with melodious voices…the silhouettes of temples .draped in mellow light……life seemed just complete…no haste to rush anywhere…no heed to passing of time …felt like being a part of scheme of nature….Oh! it was such a liberating feeling.
And then another glorious day dawned.We got up early, took bath and were in balcony.The hamlet was still in arms of sleep but nature has awakened. Sun God has started stretching it’s bountiful arms.Making way through the dense devdars light was creating hazy, pious pattern over the temples. Pujaris in the temples have started the early morning havans and smoke column rising from vedis lovingly embraced the haze of lights and behind the temple complex rose the black gurgling column of the smoke emitted from a burning pyre. Behind the temple complex is the cremation ground. The cremation ground dates back to the time of Chand dynasty and now is used by the inhabitants of the nearby villages. Watching the three kinds of smokes and haze coiling,uncoiling,emerging from different sources and mingling,unmingling with one another was an experience beyond words. The celestial, the pious, the beginning, the end altogether they created mystical inscriptions in the space over the temples and those centuries old Devdars watched solemnly. When a small ray of light flickered over the leaves of cedar I felt them smiling with compassion over my feelings of amazement and complete surrender to the almighty pulsating source of divine energy .
It was the morning when you can almost feel that you have met God.

Pictures by Sunder Iyer

Bheemashakar-----jyotirlinga

Nearly 140 km from Pune ,in the direction of Nasik is Bheemashankar,shrine of Lord Shiva and also one of the twelve jyotirlingas.It is said that after killing the demon Tripurasur,Lord Shiva sat on these hills for taking rest.In our mythological references this is described as one of the most fierce battles ever fought.The streams of sweat running down shiva's body gave birth to river bheemarathi.Like bhagirathi emerging from shiva's locks this river is also revered and most of the religious places of Maharashtra are situated on the bank of this river.originating from these hills of sahyadri Bheema flows southwards and mingles with krishna near Raichoor.In Pandharpur the river is known as Chandrabhaga.
Coming back to Bheemashankar temple,it's a modest structure in black stone.but the neatness and fineness of the sculpture stand unaffected by the weathering extremes of times.The temple dates back to eighteenth century.The temple complex houses various small temples of other Gods and Goddesses.There is a kund near temple .It is said that water in this kund comes from bheema river which snakes it's way to kund under the rocks and hills.All round the year pilgrims come to pay their homage to this seat of lord shiva but during shravan month ,the hills and forest around it reverberate with the continuous chants of om namo shivay..............the incessant rain ,the foggy forset,slippery rocks ,nothing deters devotees as they line up for hours for darshan and worship of swayambhoo shivlinga.
Besides the religious and mythological importance ,Bheemashakar allures the adventure loving trekkers and the nature's tapestry changing with season is intoxicating.
  I have once been to Bheemashankar during mansoon the dense mystique forests,the clouds walking beside me,the lashing rain,the pounding streams, every thing is still etched in my memory.It really felt like witnessing the raudra roop of lord shiva.But this time when we visited Bheemashankar last week the scenes were painted in different colours.It was quiet,colourful,smiling with benevolence.As the vehicle started climbing the hills nature started unfolding it's panoramas.The distant misty mountains were melting in the arms of flossy clouds.The blue ,the white at that end looked  dreamy.Lined on both the sides of road were bright blue ,mellow violet.sparkling yellow,white,pink coloured wild flowers.Nodding and dancing on the tune of wind the flowers looked like pretty little girls welcoming us ,wrapped in sweet smiles.In between hills and road stretched the lush green fields and meadows.The shepherds with their herds and a stick on shoulders looked peaceful ,in perfect harmony with nature.
As we climbed higher the tall trees walked close to us.their erect stately persona somehow looked very reassuring.as if trying to say........as long as we are there you can enjoy the bliss of cool.balmy air.the blues of sky,the greens of fields. you can have all as we are there with you.During mansoon we come across a roaring,gurgling waterfall after every half a kilometer or so but during this sunny day of october we could not witness waterfalls though we came across one or two trikling streams on the way. The one near the tea shop on the way was quite a lovely sight .
The Bheemashankar temple is midst the forest.These forests are home to many wild animals and is protected place for them.Bheemashankar has a wild life sacntuary too.Though its difficult to sight one while going to the temple.The forest stretches on both sides of the path leading to temple. narrow,muddy tracks lead to dense forest branching off the main guarded path leading to temple.we ventured into one of these.it laid to a clearing between tall trees.here was a small temple,a jal kund and few idols of unknown gods and goddesses under the open expanse of sky.beyond it on still higher altitude were tall,erect trees closely guarding the sactity of wilderness.often trekkers camp near the jungles.
The most spectular scene was behind devi kamalja mandir.From the height of approximately 3000 ft.,the villages in the valley below appeared almost flattened.Whole valley was immersed in the clouds.A translucent haze hung over the green expanse .Sloping down the hills ,from pinnacles to the valley ,were the streams of bright yellow flowers.In fact all around sprinkled in between the greenary these tiny yellow flowers imparted the valley it's magical beauty.They were every where............running down the hills encircling the valley,flanking the narrow track on either side,dancing on the precipices,at the feet of soaring trees,midst the clusters of bushes.there were flowers of myraid colours as well but yellow reigned the scene undisputedly. sonaki .painted the valley with golden hues.yes ,this tiny ,lively flower is known as sonaki in marathi The quiet here was engulfing.The only sound was buzzing of bees.All four of us were mesmerized by the beauty ,the magnificience before us.sons and father were busy clicking the shot and I as usual was sipping it drop by drop ,flower by flower.Here we met Blue Mormon,the elegent butterfly.we could not capture it in pic as it flutters every where with smooth swing of wings but seldom sits still.there were other species of butterflies but the place is famous for blue mormons.
Bheemashankar is very well connected to Pune and Nasik .People sometimes visit Bheemashankar on a days trip by chartered taxis or own vehicles but on the ways are various resorts.one resort the blue mormon is hardly 6 or 7 km. from the temple.state transport bus also goes upto temple.various food joints and snack bars are there.fresh.hot KHOA is speciality of the place.not to be missed item.
If you are headed from Pune to Nasik or vice versa plan to include a visit to Bheemashankar .It's definitely worth visiting.

the main shrine of bheemashankar temple with deepstambh in foreground.

the shani temple at the premises

carvings on the temple

carvings on the temple

a temple in the nearby forest.

a stream on way

on way to bheemashankar....through the clouds.

entrance of the temple

the calling of.....deep forests around the temple...

a sonaki couple...

tasting the sonaki

a dam on way.

the golden pastures

golden valley

quiet-cloudy pastures

floating clouds

bonus of the trip- sonaki


all the pictures are copyrighted by sunder iyer and shubham sunder