Chaukori....a tranquil experience

It was 3^rd of March 2015 . We reached Chakauri as the day was wrapping up. We had witnessed an amazing sunset from the rooftop of a road side house at Berinag. Kind of sunset that leaves us awestruck with huge, orange-red circle of sun majestically gliding on vast horizon, filling every object with an ethereal beauty.

Our train from Lucknow had reached Kathgodam at about 11.30 A.M. Our taxi was waiting for us outside the station and we immediately hit the road. We reached Chaukori at about 7 P.M. After dinner we retired to bed early with dreams of early morning dialogue with snow-clad majestic peaks of Himalaya.

Chaukori is a tiny Hill station in Pithoragarh District of Kumaon Division of Uttarakhand. This was our second visit to Chaukori. Once almost about 17 years back we had visited Chaukori with our two sons. As is the story of every tourist place, Chaukori too has changed a lot with passage of time but it still  has those quiet pockets where woods sit by you silently whispering untold stories, chirping of birds gels into virgin melody of folk songs riding from villages down in the valley. Splendid  view of majestic Himalayan peaks Nanda devi, Nandadevi east, Nandakot, Panchchuli, trishul and Annapurna transport you to an entirely new world. Bathed in moonlight when snow-capped peaks resplendently stand out in inky blackness of night, you are compelled to believe that there far off is a land of fairies and angels.

4^th of march, cool, tender twilight moments, salubrious mountain air though nipping was ahh so refreshing. We were on the watch tower at Kumaon Mandal guest house premises waiting for the sun. Here we met Mr. Sunil Arora, the lone traveller. His enthusiasm for wanderings is simply amazing. And then slowly the rosy tint started appearing on the sky far away behind snowy peaks and then suddenly one of the peaks was bathed in silky orangish pink light….the simmering, flickering fingers of the sun were caressing the pearly white head of the peak with soft tender touches….I could hear the music in my soul….the divine tinkling of temple bells….the atmosphere  was as if  filled with unsung prayers and hymns……

The valley on other side was filled with an ocean of clouds. Chaukori at one time must have been a quaint little tiny land mass surrounded by valleys on all the sides, encircled by mountains, peaks and hills. In those early morning hours it must have looked like a floating island in the clouds. The magic still can be felt and witnessed.

After a cup of tea in open in the company of charismatic Himalayan peaks we set off for unhurried wanderings. Eariler when we were here in Kumaon Mandal guest house, there were no buildings in the vicinity except that big old palatial house. Now a number of houses, resorts, hotels have come up. Earlier there was no paved path and we roamed around between bushes, trees. This time we had to go out on the road from the main gate of guest house and we walked on a laid down path. We walked up to the tip from where hills sloped down to valleys.

There was this little temple under a big tree on that hill. Steeped with silence and surrounded by tall trees this small portion of hill was a perfect place to sit down and catch up with oneself. The lone Buransh tree between dense greenery smiled all bright and red. Snow clad mountains seemed nearer. After spending some time we returned to guest house. On way back in a grove enjoyed chirping and twittering of different species of birds.

Back in the guest house most of the fellow travellers were out in the open --- the middle aged couple from Varanasi with their young daughter, the group of Bengali boys heading for Munsiyari with a trekking plan booked, this Bengali documentary maker with his mother and mausi and Sunil ji. All of them left after breakfast. We too had a plan to go to Munsiari but as the road on the way was blocked due to heavy snowfall and anybody going towards Munsiyari needed one extra day, we had to cancel our programme of visiting it. If we went ahead, it would not have been not possible to get back to Kathgodam in time to catch our train. We even thought of cancelling our reservation if we could get the seats reserved for a day later but that could not happen hence we stayed there in Chaukori for the day.

After every body left it became quieter as we two were the only occupants in entire premises besides the staff of guest house. Sometimes that is what you need…..let the time slip away while you sit wrapped in eloquent silence, trying to merge yourself with nature all around. We wandered all around leisurely discovering new paths, spotting different birds, inhaling the fragrance of unnamed flowers and chatting with the local kids, enjoying the gathering of women to celebrate Holi, The sudden charismatic appearance of two rainbows in the valley, suddenly finding myself face to face with an idol of Ma Kali, locked in a room of deserted and dilapidated hut.

.

Night dawned and the entire hill station plunged into pitch black darkness as there was no electric supply that day but that too proved to be advantageous for us. A bonfire in the verandah and its warmth was too cosy and comforting. In front of us were the Himalayan peaks bathed in moonlight.

How they stand out! The combination of snow and moonlight…so mystique it looked. The entire range like illuminated Arc of Noah in the dark, raging water waves invited us to take the voyage of faith. It was so divine.

Yes , we missed the chance of being at Munsiyari, a chance to enjoy the majestic beauty of Himalayas from closer quarters but as is said everything happens with a purpose, our extended  stay at   somnolent hills of Chaukori too served a deep, fulfilling purpose. Such divine encounters not only rejuvenated my soul but brought myself closer to me.

All pictures by Sunder Iyer.

Vriddh Jageshwar

On our way from Chaukori to Jageshwar we took a turn from Barechina to reach Vriddha Jageshwar. This temple is approximately ten kilometers from the turn of Barechina. Our driver Prem  suggested that before Jageshwar we must visit Vriddh Jageshwar. It is believed that before going down in the valley for His Tapasya Lord Shiva took rest on the hill where this temple is built. The temple is said to be older than temple of Bal Jageshwar.
It was a day before the festival of Holi. Most of the roadside shops were closed as people must have gone down to their villages to celebrate the festival. It was a quiet afternoon. We crossed some villages on the way but for most of the stretch the road was flanked by trees on both the sides.and then suddenly we were face to face with the magnificent snow clad peaks of Himalaya. What a fantabulous view....and I thought I had left behind the peaks at Chaukori. View of those snow clad peaks with a simmering silken radiance was simply intoxicating.
 When I write about mountains, hills, peaks and snow, I feel, I repeat and reuse  adjectives and phrases but while watching those peaks.....just a change of place and they unravel themselves in an entirely new way. It never fails to amaze me.

                                  Panoramic view of Himalayan peaks. [ click on the pic to enjoy the full view]

And this was the dining table laid by Mr Bisht, proprietor of Himdarshan, a lodge on the side of the road.

When we reached Vriddh Jageshwar temple, Pujari ji was satting there alone. We were the only ones besides him. He told us that just yesterday people from nearby four, five villages visited the temple along with their Gram Devtas. It's a local tradition that one or two days prior to Holi festival nearby Gram Devtas are brought to the temple to pay homage to Vriddh Jageshwar. Villagers assemble there in large number, sing and dance, wish each other and then return with their Gram Devtas to their respective villages. I wish, I was there a day before. Cultural variety and versatility of our land fascinates me.

It was a cool, bright day. Cerulean sky above smiled brightly while tall, green trees encircling the temple stood rapt in meditative tranquility.

On one side of temple in the valley lay nestled a village. Small houses, the terrace fields, a ribbon like stream sparkling with golden touch of sun looked picturesque. Complete silence reigned.

Sanctum sanctoriam at Vriddh Jageshwar. Nandi here was inside the temple building though outside the Garbh Grah.

some other temples in the vicinity and the Vriddh Jageshwar from the back side.

These were few smaller shrines. Above each of these a bell and a fan or say chandelier of cloth with frills was hanging.

Behind the temple was a small covered verandah where this Havan kund was placed. The fragrant smoke of the previous day was still there. Sunder and Pujari ji were in front of the temple. I sat there alone for some time feeling the reverberation of the mantras and shlokas chanted by Pujari ji perhaps early in the morning. Felt as if I had always belonged there.

The motorable road culminates at the temple. Adjacent to temple a pedestrian walk way runs down to the forest in the valley. This three kilometer trek leads to the temple complex of Jageshwar where one of the twelve Jyotirlingas is situated.

Some day I will love to trek on that path. 


(pics by sunder iyer and namita sunder)

Jageshwar group of temples

 

The bell at the gate of temple group

 As we approached the gate of the enclosure inside which stands the cluster of Jageshwar group of temple, we could hear the Sholakas, mantras echoing in the premises. A family was conducting pooja in Mahamrityunjay temple. Mahamrityunjay temple is  the oldest and the biggest one in the group. Stately Devdars on the other side of the river gliding behind the temples stood silent and meditative. Dotted with many Nagara styles of temples of different sizes, the place enticed me to travel into the era long back. Why so many shrines were erected in such a small area? The temples are said to be erected between 8th to 18th century i. e. from Katyuri king's time to Chand dynasty period. Did different kings built different temples to pay homage to God? Did they get it built for fulfillment of their wishes or to commemorate their victory in any battle? Did any of them got erected any of the temples as penance? These Devdars, the river, the mountains...are they witness of the those times? So many questions rushed through my mind but none of them lasted more than a second. They evaporated sooner than they were generated. Such was the magical impact of the tranquility spread all around that all thoughts and curiosity vanished and calmness spread within.
There are about 123 temples in the cluster and every shrine has a shivlinga inside it. Though the stone plaques in front of some temples displayed the names of Surya temple, Navgrah temple but these too looked like other temples. Some of the statues found here are now kept in the museum at Jageshwar. The museum has two galleries and some rare sculptures are displayed here. The temple of Navdurga and Pushtidevi were locked at the time we visited so could not see them from inside.

.

Bal jageshwara/ Tarun Jageshwar temple in the premises is considered to be one of the 12 Jyotirlingas.

सौराष्ट्रे सोमनाथं च श्रीशैले मल्लिकार्जुनम् ।
उज्जयिन्यां महाकालमोकांरममलेश्वरम् ।
परल्यां वैद्यनाथं च डाकिन्यां भीमशंकरम् ।
सेतुबंधे तु रामेशं नागेशं दारूकावने ।
वाराणस्यां तु विश्वेशं त्रयंम्बकं गौतमीतटे ।
हिमालये तु केदारं घुश्मेशं च शिवालये ।
ऐतानि ज्योतिर्लिंगानि सायं प्रातः पठेन्नरः ।
सप्तजन्मकृतं पापं स्मरणेन विनश्यति.

In the above shloka mentioning all the jyotirlingas, the eigth one--- Nagesham Darukavane is said to be referring to Nageshwar/ bal jageshwar at present day Jageshwar in Almora district of Uttarakhand. Darukavane means forest of devdar and the dense forest  of devdars around the temples justifies the explanation.

This temple faces west. Outside the entrance on either side are two well sculpted images of dwarpals Nandi and Skandi with all their arms and armaments. 

The Shivling in the sanctum sanctorum is swayambhoo and appears to be divided in two parts.  The larger part depicts Lord Shiva while the smaller one devi Parvati.  There are two Ashtdhatu statues of Chand kings Deepchand And Tripal Chand in standing posture behind the Shivlinga. There is a burning light[jyoti] in cupped hands of the statue of King Deepchand, reputed to be burning  incessantly from times immemorial.

.

Mahamrityunjay temple is perhaps the only temple of Shiva called by this particular name. As is evident from the name devotees come here to perform the life saving pooja. This is east facing temple and the unique Linga here has an eye shaped opening. God here is worshiped as savior from death. Chanting of mantras and their reverberation leave a very powerful impact.

Almost all the temples have carved stone gate with images of dwarpals on both sides. On the shikharas of temples various images of Gods, mainly Shiva with ganas are etched.

 

The temple has an interesting legend attached to it. It is believed that Lord Shiva had come to this site for meditation. So when the women folk of the village came to know that  a young yogi with haloing aura  has come to meditate, they all gathered to catch a glimpse of him, making the men folk infuriated and to control the situation Shiva converted himself into a child and since then he is worshipped  here in his child avatar.  

Many years ago Jageshwar used to be a pilgrim halt enroute to  famous Kailash Mansarovar yatra. It is also said that Adi Shankaracharya stayed here and worked towards restoration of the temples before moving towards Kedarnath.

.

Though normally in the month of march it is not very cold in the valley but this year weather showed different patterns of  mood. We were told that till a week ago the road to the temple was covered with snow.  Thunderous rain and hailstorm two days ago too contributed in  bringing the temperature considerably down. It was very early in the morning. The sand stone floor of temple premises was bitingly cold. The carpets spread to make pradikshna easier for devotees were drenched with the moisture, water literally oozing out.

.

 

Logs burnt in open courtyard. One  pujari sat near it. Yellow, orange flames leapt and danced in air. Harmonious echo of chanting of prayers, blowing of conch, peeling of bells, murmuring of river Jat ganga transported me in a trance like state. Rising column of smoke as if invited to accompany it to the mystique horizons.The Devdars around the temples stood close giving ample shade to let the silky , tender blades of green grass flourish while few sunrays haltingly stepped in to kiss the glistening dew drops and droplets on leaves and grass.
If at all the moments could be frozen......................

All the pictures by sunder Iyer.
 

Whispering peace

The day was folding its wings slowly. The golden rays were gradually retreating to the shadowy darkness of dense cedar jungle. Tall elegant cedars on both sides of curvy hill road stood rapt in eloquent silence. We were on our way to Jageshwar temples group{ about 36 Km from Almora in Uttarakhand}
We could hear the soft murmuring of water. A group of centuries old temples came in view on one side of road. There were one or two others scattered on either side of road. It felt like being on the threshold of long passed era of history, steeped in spiritualism and mysticism.
By the time we reached the Kumaon Mandal guest house sun had set. Standing on the balcony in front of our room we looked at the cluster of temples. The only road of small hamlet of Jageshwar ran lazily from one side of temples while river Jat Ganga flowed encircling the temples from back . Tall devdars standing erect on the hills beyond the river stream turned blackish green as the lengthening shadows of dusk engulfed them. Whole aura was permeated with a mystique feel. Looking at the temples I could feel a calling from beyond.
Away from the chaotic mess of routine life, the tranquillity in the valley acted like balm on tired mind. Now and then sound of bells in the temple echoed in the valley. Gradually the shapes and contours of temples merged in the darkness. The river, calling in a soulful voice could be heard more distinctly. And then slowly the full round moon stepped in above the majestic trees of devdar.
Bathed in moon light the hills, the small houses, the temples, the river, the forests all looked ethereal. On left side of the guest house on a high hill was this huge leafless tree. Its round solid trunk holding the naked braches and branchlets spreading in all the direction looked majestic. It’s whole being sparkled in silvery grandeur. The conical tip of the shrine below it glittered like a source of light to illuminate the darkness within.
Nothing more celestial could have I conceived. The tranquil wind blew very gently. No, not even blew it was whispering, breathing peace to every thing around.
It was the night preceding Holi festival. Some where in the village people were singing the folk songs,accompanied by the beats of drums. Riding the air currents the songfull voices reached us……big round moon floating in the sky, the transparent silvery blue moonlight layer spread all over, the wind permeated with melodious voices…the silhouettes of temples .draped in mellow light……life seemed just complete…no haste to rush anywhere…no heed to passing of time …felt like being a part of scheme of nature….Oh! it was such a liberating feeling.
And then another glorious day dawned.We got up early, took bath and were in balcony.The hamlet was still in arms of sleep but nature has awakened. Sun God has started stretching it’s bountiful arms.Making way through the dense devdars light was creating hazy, pious pattern over the temples. Pujaris in the temples have started the early morning havans and smoke column rising from vedis lovingly embraced the haze of lights and behind the temple complex rose the black gurgling column of the smoke emitted from a burning pyre. Behind the temple complex is the cremation ground. The cremation ground dates back to the time of Chand dynasty and now is used by the inhabitants of the nearby villages. Watching the three kinds of smokes and haze coiling,uncoiling,emerging from different sources and mingling,unmingling with one another was an experience beyond words. The celestial, the pious, the beginning, the end altogether they created mystical inscriptions in the space over the temples and those centuries old Devdars watched solemnly. When a small ray of light flickered over the leaves of cedar I felt them smiling with compassion over my feelings of amazement and complete surrender to the almighty pulsating source of divine energy .
It was the morning when you can almost feel that you have met God.

Pictures by Sunder Iyer

Temples of Coorg

By the time we reached Omkareshwara temple the sun had set . Few bunches of small white flowers on the side of mud path leading to temple entrance were twinkling, wrapped in dusky haze of evening, First thing one encounters on entering the premises is a water tank encircled by wide pavement. In the middle of the tank is a mandapam connected by a causeway. I could not get any detail relating to this structure. Why the structure was erected in the middle of tank etc?

 On the left side were steps leading to main temple.The temple is unique in it's structure.On first look it does not look like usual temples.The gate looks more like a gate of fort and the boundary wall extending on either side of gate has tiled canopies. Roof of sanctum has a dome and four small turrets on four corners.The temple is said to be an example of Indo- Islamic architecture. Similar kind of roof we had seen over the tombs of royal families at Raja's tomb.
The temple was built by King Lingarajendra -2. It is said that the king killed an honest and pious Brahmin as he opposed certain acts of the king. The spirit of Brahmin turned into Brahmarakshasa and started torturing the king. The king then consulted religious men and on their advice brought Shivlinga from Kashi and built this temple. It is believed after this act of atonement the spirit stopped tormenting the king. There is a Tamr Patr nailed on the door just after the linga. The history of the temple is inscribed on this patra and we were told that king Lingaraja himself ordered to place that Tamr Patra there. This story is written on the plaque near the steps to the temple.
There was pitch darkness behind Linga. Flame of the lamp in front of Linga burnt steadily. As the priest narrated the legend to me I almost felt like being transported to another world. I don't know whether it was impact of darkness slowly enveloping us, the utter silence around us or the interesting mix of architecture and an equally intriguing tale, may be all of these together or throbbing presence of Shiva but I stood there spellbound and like tiny droplets of light an assurance trickled down deep within ----- there are forces to set the things right.

 

-----------------------

Above three pictures are of temple at Bhagmandla. On way to Talacaveri from Medikeri, this temple falls on route.  One need not take any diversion to visit the temple. The distance between Bhagmandla and Talacauveri is about eight kilometer. Bhagmandla is a sacred place of great importance. It is located at the confluence of three rivers  Cauveri, Kanika and Sujyoti. Sujyoti like Saraswati at Ganga Triveni Sangam in Allahabad is invisible/ antarvahini. People of Kodagu visit here to take a dip at the sangam and offer oblation to their departed relatives, ancestors.
It is said that this temple has it's reference in Skanda Purana. Bhagmandla is said to derive it's name from Rishi Bhaganda, who did severe penance here to please Lord Shiva and Lord Subramanya. This temple houses shrines of lord Subramanya, Ganpati and Lord Shiva. Shiv Ling here is known as Bhagandeshwara.
We visited this temple on our way back from Talacauveri. The moment I got down from taxi and started walking towards temple entrance I wished I could have more time in hand to spend there. No, it was not the stately, four storyed tiled gopuram but something powerful, purifying in the still air that asked to sit silently and imbibe the positive aura of the place. Once inside the wide, clean open courtyard of the temple my urge intensified. Some priests in yellow garbs were performing puja, archna at shrines, others sat at some corners chanting and reading, devotees paid their homage from one to another shrine, fragrance of flowers mixed with dhoop wafted in the air, mellow blue sky of closing day stretching over the open courtyard appeared to lean closer to caress with blessings and benevolence while far off hills wrapped in mist and haze beckoned to land beyond. I wished to sit there under the openness till the night descended with all it's dark velvety grandeur and the lamps of sky were lit while the glow of lamp from the dark sannidhi flickered to dispel all the darkness inside.

---------------

We saw these idols behind Marriamma temple near Raja's seat. We had earlier seen such idols in the courtyard of Medikeri fort. It aroused my curiosity and thanks to Google, I gathered that Dasahara festival in Medikeri is celebrated with many local rituals and rites and  these idols are taken out during those ten days of religious fervor and festivity. Many mythological anecdotes are carried out through these huge figures, mainly victory of suras over asuras. In one of the articles I read, it was said that earlier these images were carved out of wood but now with the advancement of technology the form,texture of the idols and the procession have greatly changed. Reference of huge wooden images made me remember two gigantic figures of asuras and one life size horse all carved out of wood kept in the big hall in front of our village home. As a kid I used to visit my native place during summer vacations and heard a lot about the grand Dasahara procession of our village when all those idols were draped in costly royal attires and shinning ornaments and a procession was taken out, many stories enacted. That is the beauty of our land.....a small village in northern India and small place in Karnataka, I am sure nobody from one place would have visited another in those far off times yet the cultural throbbing was so identical. What an enriching feel of bonding such chance encounters provide.

This is exterior of  Kundurumotte Sri Chowti Mariamma temple near Raja's seat. Mariamma in Kodagu is worshipped as Goddess of Shakti.

--------------------

This temple is some where in the vicinity of the Omkareshwara temple. While taking a round around the pond in front of the temple we saw it and clicked the picture. The temple appeared to be quite old and it's architecture and aura beckoned us  but we could not visit it.......may be some other time....

 ------------------

 This huge Ganesha idol and many others were kept in a verandah in front of the small temple in the courtyard of Medikeri fort. The idols were not kept in any proper order rather they appeared to be dumped, leaning upon one another. I presumed that these idols were taken out, draped and decorated at the time of a particular festival etc.

Temple inside Medikeri fort. At present Medikeri fort does not look formidable but is nice open,  neat and clean space where tourists can roam about having a feel of era bygone. Some government offices are housed in fort. Boundary wall and gates are intact. There is a church too in the premises and a museum. At the time we visited fort, the museum was closed hence could not explore that.
This temple is of Lord Shiva and appeared to be recently renovated.

I would love to end my this blog by this quote from James E. Faust.

I acknowledge with great gratitude the peace and contentment we can find for ourselves in the spiritual cocoons of our homes, our sacrament meetings, and our holy temples.

All the pictures by Sunder Iyer.