Sillery Gaon

Sillery Gaon is a quaint little village in West Bengal. For the past few years this quaint little hamlet has become a sought after tourist destination as it offers a splendid view of Kanchenjunga ranges. During our recent visit to East Sikkim, Sillery Gaon was our first stay spot. Distance of Sillery Gaon from New Jalpaigudi is approximately 100 Kms. It took us about four hours to reach there.We reached there somewhere between 1 to 2 P.M.
Sky was overcast with thick blanket of grey clouds. It was mid-day but evening seemed to be in great rush to engulf us in its embrace. Green, blue, pink paints on wooden balcony of our home stay added cheers to otherwise sombre atmosphere. From the balcony we could see the village rolling down in the valley---- low thatched roofs, wooden cabins, small green patches of fields of the  vegetables, kids playing in the backyards, people working in the fields and the football field at the farthest corner of the village. From our balcony we could see the small red, yellow figures running in the ground and occasional burst of shouts reaching us filled the air with life.
Beyond were layers and layers of clouds merging in the sky overhead, nothing was visible..... no hills, no trees, no villages scattered on the hills beyond the valley. Somewhere there behind the thick tapestry of grey clouds was hiding the majestic range of Kanchenjunga. Clouds faced us smugly like ferocious guards protecting the treasure. Unruffled by the furrow in their brow we stood there, our gazes fixed on the clouds, an expectant flutter in our heart...... will the clouds suddenly roll apart offering us a glimpse of snow covered peaks ! Well, that didn't happen but at one moment shifting clouds unveiled green of a hill and pink radiance simmered briefly on the sky sitting on it's tip. Then the hanging clouds in front of us curled up and the hills beyond could be seen. Gradually specks of lights started shining like far off starry dots. Homes and hearths were getting ready to announce closure of one more day. The way gathering, shifting, floating of clouds changed the scenes within batting of eyelids filled the heart with wonder and amazement.
After evening tea accompanied by crisp pakodas we set out to have a leisurely walk through village. Just before dinner clouds thundered, with an uproar lightening struck and the village plunged into darkness. After the rains stopped we enjoyed our fresh, hot dinner. The group of tourists in the homestay across the lane danced on the tune of popular bollywood numbers coming out of their mobile phones, We retired for night as we planned to be up very early in the morning. Our host Sailang had told us about the view point near the village and we intended to meet Sun there when it stepped into the sky with it's fresh vigour and energy.
Kanchenjunga ranges eluded us in next day morning too. Though it rained in the night in the village area but  may be in the far way lands of peaks and mountains it didn't. As we started walking towards the view point, the village dogs curled up in the middle of lane got up and started walking with us, Infact they walked with us all the way to view point rather they led us to the spot. They sensed where were we heading to. Entire village was under the spell of peaceful slumber. We crossed the village and entered the forest. Smell of anonymous wet vegetation in a dense, silent jungle always creates a magical charm over me. It floats in with breath and gradually spread inside entire of my being. I feel almost weightless and closing my eyes I imagine myself flying back to the eras of dense forests, colorful wild flowers, gurgling streams, butterflies, birds.... the time when our earth was green. During our walk when I stopped in the mid to live the feel and others moved forward, one of the dogs came back to find me. It stood silently by my side as if harmonizing with my mood. How sensitive and loving these creatures are!
Walking through narrow, winding path hemmed by tall stately trees standing on rocks we reached our destination. The clearing with rows of  stately trees on east side while on other side the hills plunged straight way into valley, welcomed us with open arms. The view from that point was mesmerizing. Faraway in the valley, deep down the green waters of Teesta lay quietly as if waiting for first rays sun to tingle it to come out of it's sleep. The green hills, the floating clouds, tiny colourful roofs of homes in the valley and above all the peace, the serenity calmed our taut urban nerves. These are the moments I look forward too....doing nothing, thinking nothing...just being, surrendering to the unknown.
The hills encircling the valley stood in sombre silence ready to present guard of honour to the mighty Sun God and the sun stepped on the vast blue stage slowly, gradually, majestically infusing life in every particle by its magical radiant touch. The golden warmth made the heart tune in with chirping of birds and the songs of love filled the air. We were ready for another day.

     All pictures by..... sunder Iyer.

A day at Wan

On twelfth of june 2016 when we started from Gwaldam guest house towards Dewal road, we did not have any fixed plan. We reached Gwaldam with a plan to trek upto Bedni  but somehow the feedback we received there discouraged us to venture on the route. We Got an impression that the terrain is too challenging for our age. So on the morning we set out to reach the last point accessible by vehicle on that route, that is Wan. We drove with a leisurely pace stopping in between to click pictures, to listen to the rhythm of silence flowing through the forest of tall, stately pines.
And then we reached Wan. At the turn of the road was this tiny shop. We parked our vehicle there and inquired whether we could get a cup of tea . It’s Jamuna dadi’s tea shoppe. Here we met Hira. Hira takes trekkers – individuals and groups on trek tours to Bedni, Roopkund and beyond. Few minutes of conversation with him and he convinced us to embark upon the trek to Bedni. Somehow or other the way he took upon himself the responsibility of making this trek possible for us made us free of all worries. Jamuna dadi too with her enchanting smile encouraged us . Ultimately it was decided that we shall spend the day in the village and then next morning start our trek.


  Jamuna dadi, the shop owner
This stay at Wan was totally unplanned but perhaps such unexpected changes make traveling very fruitful and enriching. The day we spent in the tiny village was truly rewarding, Sitting there in the tea shop in salubrious surrounding of green hills we met many new people and listened to various travel tales. There was this gentleman who once upon a time worked as porter and had accompanied many foreign nationals to uncharted paths, untraveled roads on high hills, through dense forests and deep valleys. Now with tired limbs and weakened joints he roams and works within village limit only but he still looks with longing and fondness towards the high peaks and sharing the tales of his glorious, tough travels make his eyes shine with luminous joy. He remembers with fondness his past adventures and conquests but not being able to do that now had not made him bitter at all. This calm acceptance of  the inevitable  patterns and changes in way of life is very endearing….a life long lesson. The real travel is just not visiting new places but learning new lessons of life, developing a new eye to various facets of life.




                             Panoramic views of Wan
Hira took us for lunch to his home. His home was in front of tea shoppe, across the road on a slightly higher plane. His mother and wife prepared the food.  Fresh hot dal, vegetables and salad from fields, chapati and rice with home made chooran was tasty and we enjoyed it a lot. During entire day we visited other houses too, had tea in different courtyards and learnt a lot about local customs, traditions, festivals, fairs, Gods and Goddesses.

In conversation with Hira and Yashwant, near the river flowing through the village






out of these three pictures, the first one is the stream of river, whose flow the villagers get diverted to run their indigenous flour mill. Second pic is the outer view of their flour mill ,while the third one is the inside view. such praiseworthy effort on the parts of villagers.

Lady walking towards her field to cut the wheat and in the upper one cutting wheat in the field.



Separating grains from plants. I admired the school, college going girls, who study in nearby bigger places but were at home during summer vacation. They participated equally in  all the agricultural activities.


It was time of harvesting wheat. The women folkfields were busy cutting wheat from fields, separating the grains by beating the dried plants.
Meeting the children and interacting with them was a wonderful experience. Yashwant, Deepak, Pankaj, Yashpal, Pushkar etc were in the age group of nine to fourteen. Few of them studied in schools of some nearby bigger places and were in the village during their summer vacations. Awareness level of the children living in those remote places was amazing, from latest mobile technologies to political scenario of state and country to each and every plant, trees of their area, mythological tales, local rites, rituals each of them was very well versed in all these subjects. Very sweet, affectionate kids were they.

                   enjoying tea and gossiping with women

                              children in their courtyard

Pankaj holds in his hands a plant , he plucked from road side. Children told us that a very tasty curry is made from this plant. They described the entire procedure of cleaning the plant and cooking it.

             Walking towards Ghanti Dhar with children
They showed us their fields in the valley, introduced us to various plants and their utilities. Narrated the tales and facts heard from their grand parents about centuries old Surai trees and  by their description made alive  the crimson clad valley in the season of Buransh blossoming. Excitedly they invited us to revisit their village at that time. Those lovely smiling faces as if reflected radiant Buransh.
While returning from Ghanti dhar we were caught unaware by a sudden spurt of lashing rain. No cover was available. we had not taken our umbrellas with us, children were not worried about themselves but were concerned that we had to start our trek early morning and we didn’t have any change of clothes with us. A little ahead on the side of road we found a bent, hollow tree under which we tried to get shelter. We tried calling the driver of our cab to come and take us but that too did not work as no BSNL coverage and connectivity is available in Wan and nearby areas and we both and our cabby Prem all three of us had BSNL numbers only. With luck we saw two people coming towards us, Kids asked them whether they had a mobile and then they called their mother to send our driver to pick up all of us. Finally huddling together inside the cab we reached the village, where jamuna dadi was ready with black hot tea to greet us. The entire episode was so fun filled. It revived our childhood spirit and enthusiasm. True, the joy of life comes from our encounters with new experiences, changing horizons. The simple joys are the most nurturing ones.
We spent the night in a small, low ceiling neat room with mud walls, whose door opened to green high  hill beyond the valley. The bed sheet, quilts and blankets were clean and we had a undisturbed sound sleep. Kaloo, the black, bulky dog sat on rooftop entire night as if on guard.

At the door of the room we stayed for night

                              The inside view of room

Next morning we left the place with Hira on our trek to Bedni but we did not leave Wan. We brought it with us. It became a part of us and simultaneously we left something of us there behind. We returned back to our daily city routine but the journey never ended. It keeps rewinding again and again within the deepest and quietest chambers deep down inside us.

                             An overview of Wan village road



All the pictures by Sunder Iyer.
Details of Our guide–
Hira Singh Bisht Garhwali
Village — Wan, Dewal. Chamoli, Garhwal, Uttarakhand.
Phone number — 09756480219[ whats app available on this number], 07895165848.

'' Learn to be innocent again and that freshness never fades''

First day of the year. We decided to spend the day in a nearby village. There is this primary school at the verge of the village. The kids there were in celebration mood. I feel children are always in that mood…….happy , bubbling, laughing , infusing others with a kind of positive energy. In their innocence every child is a source of light and love and if we permit them they can teach us to be the same. We lived that happiness, experienced same joy while spending time with the children.


The air had a slight wintery nip. The children had collected  fallen twigs and branches on the roof top, preparing for winters. They threw down some of the twigs and fire was arranged in open. The crackling fire spread the warmth while kids around filled the surrounding with their continuous chatter and laughter. Ah, what a lovely, cozy feel it was.


As it was first day of the year, head mistress and teachers of the school had planned to celebrate the birthday of the children falling on the day. The ‘cake of Halwa’ was prepared fresh there in school kitchen only. The  toppings  on the cake was of bright colored gems. Room was decorated with festoons  of used  papers and were made by students. The caps for birthday girls were made by their friends out of thrown away pizza boxes etc, complete with shining papers etc. I felt like basking in glorious sunshine.




A pen-pencil holder made of used bangles, wall hanging from used match boxes and bangles, the green branches in the flower vase carved out of empty water bottles…..it was really delightful to see the creativity of the children. under the proper guidance of the teachers who are committed and involved true potential of children can be explored fully. Resources and facilities play an important role but shortcomings of these can be overcome by zeal, perseverance and honest intentions.

Swinging on the hanging roots of the big banyan tree was the loveliest fun time. The pure joy, the ringing laughter had a cathartic impact on heart. I am sure no expensive ride in any big amusement park can fill the heart with the kind of happiness we all felt under the benevolent shade  of that majestic tree.




The lemon-spoon race………after a very long gap enjoyed it. Kids in city no more enjoy such fun-filled competitions.



Our day at the village ended with lunch of hot fresh poori, kachauri, chapati and green chuteny. Some desi dishes of fresh milk were very tasty.
We returned to our homes refreshed, energized with a promise to ourselves to spend  more such days  but some where deep down lurks a sadness…….We are loosing our villages very fast, the concrete jungles are gulping down the shady trees, the green fields.

pictures by Sunder Iyer




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