Sillery Gaon

Sillery Gaon is a quaint little village in West Bengal. For the past few years this quaint little hamlet has become a sought after tourist destination as it offers a splendid view of Kanchenjunga ranges. During our recent visit to East Sikkim, Sillery Gaon was our first stay spot. Distance of Sillery Gaon from New Jalpaigudi is approximately 100 Kms. It took us about four hours to reach there.We reached there somewhere between 1 to 2 P.M.
Sky was overcast with thick blanket of grey clouds. It was mid-day but evening seemed to be in great rush to engulf us in its embrace. Green, blue, pink paints on wooden balcony of our home stay added cheers to otherwise sombre atmosphere. From the balcony we could see the village rolling down in the valley---- low thatched roofs, wooden cabins, small green patches of fields of the  vegetables, kids playing in the backyards, people working in the fields and the football field at the farthest corner of the village. From our balcony we could see the small red, yellow figures running in the ground and occasional burst of shouts reaching us filled the air with life.
Beyond were layers and layers of clouds merging in the sky overhead, nothing was visible..... no hills, no trees, no villages scattered on the hills beyond the valley. Somewhere there behind the thick tapestry of grey clouds was hiding the majestic range of Kanchenjunga. Clouds faced us smugly like ferocious guards protecting the treasure. Unruffled by the furrow in their brow we stood there, our gazes fixed on the clouds, an expectant flutter in our heart...... will the clouds suddenly roll apart offering us a glimpse of snow covered peaks ! Well, that didn't happen but at one moment shifting clouds unveiled green of a hill and pink radiance simmered briefly on the sky sitting on it's tip. Then the hanging clouds in front of us curled up and the hills beyond could be seen. Gradually specks of lights started shining like far off starry dots. Homes and hearths were getting ready to announce closure of one more day. The way gathering, shifting, floating of clouds changed the scenes within batting of eyelids filled the heart with wonder and amazement.
After evening tea accompanied by crisp pakodas we set out to have a leisurely walk through village. Just before dinner clouds thundered, with an uproar lightening struck and the village plunged into darkness. After the rains stopped we enjoyed our fresh, hot dinner. The group of tourists in the homestay across the lane danced on the tune of popular bollywood numbers coming out of their mobile phones, We retired for night as we planned to be up very early in the morning. Our host Sailang had told us about the view point near the village and we intended to meet Sun there when it stepped into the sky with it's fresh vigour and energy.
Kanchenjunga ranges eluded us in next day morning too. Though it rained in the night in the village area but  may be in the far way lands of peaks and mountains it didn't. As we started walking towards the view point, the village dogs curled up in the middle of lane got up and started walking with us, Infact they walked with us all the way to view point rather they led us to the spot. They sensed where were we heading to. Entire village was under the spell of peaceful slumber. We crossed the village and entered the forest. Smell of anonymous wet vegetation in a dense, silent jungle always creates a magical charm over me. It floats in with breath and gradually spread inside entire of my being. I feel almost weightless and closing my eyes I imagine myself flying back to the eras of dense forests, colorful wild flowers, gurgling streams, butterflies, birds.... the time when our earth was green. During our walk when I stopped in the mid to live the feel and others moved forward, one of the dogs came back to find me. It stood silently by my side as if harmonizing with my mood. How sensitive and loving these creatures are!
Walking through narrow, winding path hemmed by tall stately trees standing on rocks we reached our destination. The clearing with rows of  stately trees on east side while on other side the hills plunged straight way into valley, welcomed us with open arms. The view from that point was mesmerizing. Faraway in the valley, deep down the green waters of Teesta lay quietly as if waiting for first rays sun to tingle it to come out of it's sleep. The green hills, the floating clouds, tiny colourful roofs of homes in the valley and above all the peace, the serenity calmed our taut urban nerves. These are the moments I look forward too....doing nothing, thinking nothing...just being, surrendering to the unknown.
The hills encircling the valley stood in sombre silence ready to present guard of honour to the mighty Sun God and the sun stepped on the vast blue stage slowly, gradually, majestically infusing life in every particle by its magical radiant touch. The golden warmth made the heart tune in with chirping of birds and the songs of love filled the air. We were ready for another day.

     All pictures by..... sunder Iyer.

An evening in pine jungles

From the first floor verandah of Kumainu-Garhwal mandal tourist guest house at Gwaldam, hills beyond the market square buildings were  clearly visible and slowly climbing file of stately pine trees was inviting.  Slightly left to the hills, tiers of mountain and peaks were cloaked in thick grayish white clouds.We were told that on a clear sparkling day the snow capped Himalayan peaks under the blue canopy of sky offer a magnificently divine view from that point but that day we were soaking in the surreal mystique feel.While talking to the locals we gathered that at the farthest tip of pine adorned hills there is a small ,beautiful grass land.We suddenly planned to visit that. We finally could not make upto that point as we had started quite late and it  being a cloudy day the darkness descended earlier than usual. However we enjoyed our  leisurely ascent midst pine jungle.
The cab could take us upto the school building and from there onwards we  climbed in the august company of lofty pines. .A kind of bitter sweet fragrance of slightly moist pine woods , ground carpeted with golden yellow needles of pine,stately pines adhering to earth with all their might yet appearing aloof to things around bearing a saint like equanimity….the conglomerated impact of all these elements of nature somehow takes you to an entirely different planes.The chains and burdens on your being start dropping one by one and sitting there with your back resting against one of the pines if your eyes stroll to the upper most tips of pines, you feel nearer to heaven than earth.
This ridge provides a beautiful view of valley on another side. Kosi river snakes through the valley. it’s silvery band shimmered  midst the green, blue haze.
Pine needles dropped silently while tall, magnificent trees stood  like powerful warriors with golden heart. Their sermons can be clearly heard by a keen ear and dedicated heart.I gathered some pine cones fallen on ground. Some were ripe and dried, some were small green and sticky.perhaps the untimely separation from parent branch caused the raw wound and heart bled .
We roamed around enjoying the picturesque landscape, the sylvan scenes, inhaling delicious fragrance of woods.The evening proved to be a perfect prelude to our Bedini trek.


















All pictures by Sunder Iyer

Loleygaon

Loleygaon is a small Lepcha village. It lies at the altitude of approximately 1670 meters.Loleygaon is about 124 Km from New Jalpaiguri. It takes about four hours to reach Loleygaon by road from NJP via Kelimpong. From Lava, Loleygaon is about 24 Kms away. It comes under the Kelimpong 1 block in the Darjleeng district  of West Bengal.

Loley gaon has few wonderful points to enjoy the beauty of Kanchenjunga range and sunrise but as we visited the place in rainy season, we did not go there. We could not walk even on the famous hanging bridge as due to heavy rains it was closed on the day we visited there .

But due to abundance of surreal clouds walking from all sides we enjoyed an entirely different beauty of the famous Loleygaon forest. A long stretch of road passing through exuberant jungles on both the sides was bumpy, strewn with pebbles .Giant sized trees  with moss covering their boles stood there with arms widely outstretched. Wild creepers hung from branches and swing from tree to tree.Wet moss grew even on creepers hanging downward. It felt like traveling back in time, ages back at the time of the planet being uninhabited. The grey white clouds swirling in the forest created a mysterious world.Rain lashed on the window panes with wild  fury perhaps it did not like our intrusion into the solemn world of nature.

Forest from a distance appeared one green,grey, white like vast expanse of ocean but come closer and it broke into different forms--- fresh, radiant green ferns standing tall like trees and bushes, gracefully curved tall bamboos like explosion of green, stealthily tip toeing lights and shadows, fallen trees and above all the pulsating stillness , the complete silence yet alive with anticipation. A twig snapped somewhere, someone scurried unseen, a shrill voice of unknown bird exploded across entire jungle

 Loleygaon forests cast spell. They not only engulf you, swallow you but they step inside you, they  spread within and then everything else fades in the background .

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                                                               varied moods of Loleygaon forest

                                               The hanging bridge, the canopy walk{ we missed walking on it as it was closed on that day}

These above three are the pictures of a monastery[ rather it was more like a temple of Buddha] and a temple on our way from Lava to Loleygaon. Barring a very small shrine dedicated to Lord Hanuman on a roadside rock on way to Kolakham from New Jalpaigudi this was the first temple we came across during our travels. The shrine is dedicated to Lord Shiva but these two shivlingas with nagas are erected in open.The temple can be seen behind Buddha's statue in the first picture. Standing Buddha too is very rare. May be it's a monastery in making. This place was referred to us by the lady of the eatery at Lava where we had our breakfast.


Pictures by Sunder Iyer.

A walk in jungle

On reaching Satpura National park we were informed that they offer three ways to explore the jungle--- a safari in open jeeps, an elephant ride and a jungle walk. We decided to go on the jungle walk first, the same evening.

Our guide Laxman was at our room on 3.15 p.m. and we walked towards the bank of the river to take the boat. The boat drops the travelers at a particular spot from where the walk on fixed route starts.

At the time we started  the sun was still high and shinning in the sky. The golden ball glittered brilliantly. It’s deep reaching fingers tickled the amazingly blue waters of the river and waves glee in silvery mirth. The  tinkling of countless ripples filled the air with sonorous raptures. On one side of the river the jungle stood in quite a close proximity to the river bank while on the other far off stretch of the trees could be seen shrouded in a haze behind the green ground rolling off for miles and miles. The boat drive was of around 5 kms and it dropped us at the spot from the jungle trek had to start.

Getting down from the boat we climbed slightly rising ground to reach the level of the forest. Laxman had a tranquilizing spray and a lathi with him. We guessed that this must be relatively safer area of the forest, that is why the walk is organized on this side of the forest. Laxman in his solemn voice informed us about the dos and dont's in case of sudden encounter with wild bear etc and that combined with the resounding silence of jungle set the mood of  thrill and anticipation. Every few steps our guide stopped to show us fresh pug marks on the soil on the track we were walking, clawing of the bark of trees by bears and leopards. Even the slightest sounds on the dry leaves covering the ground made us alert. We did see few harmless animals like deer, sambhar, langoors and wild boars and learnt a lot about local trees, plants and variety of grass.

From the boat the jungle looked united, an entity in itself but as we approached closer it started separating- the individual trees, the thickets, the foliage, exotic sounds, spill of sunlight, patches of light and shadow, crackling of dried leaves, snapping of twigs, insects, silences, each of these distinct yet inter-woven.

The cool shade inside the jungle was very comforting. Enough light penetrated through the vegetation to make us see upto long distances but it was not difficult to imagine what an eerie feel it would give once the darkness descends. However at the moment the mellow evening light filtering through the forest touched every leaf, every tuft of grass as if with a magic wand. The tall stately trees stood wrapped in haloed aura and the smaller plants, bushes, grass, the entire thicket knelt before them in complete devotion.

After almost an hour and half long walk through the forest we reached a clearing where an immense water body simmered lazily .The sun glowed on the other side of waters. The forest  on this side stood in revering silence. How we wished to enjoy the beauty of sunset in that panoramic setting but that was not to be. We could not have stayed there up to sun set as we needed to cross the forest while returning to the other side and walking through forest in dark was not advisable. Anyway we enjoyed what lay before us stopping there for few moments. The area was haven for birds. Like solitary thinkers few perched on dried stumps here and there. Others nibbled on the wet mud toddling in groups. In between the flocks of   few others flew majestically setting a harmonious rhythm in the air.

We returned via another route. This  was almost on the periphery of the jungle. The shadows had become darker. Though unseen the shuffling activities deep inside forest could be felt. May be the young ones were being herded to safety after  prancing and frolicking the whole day out, the adults were retracing their steps back to home, heavy hoofs, deep grunts. The pulsating presence of a world so different  yet so near created a strange mixture of feelings of  trepidation and fascination.

After about  8 to 10 Km. walk  we reached the appointed spot at about 6 P.M. By that time the boat too had arrived to pick us up. Lowering ourselves on the boat seats we threw a glance towards jungle. It stood there silent, dark  and closed. 

An ant hill dug by bear to taste the fresh ants.

Chinda grass.This grass is used to make brooms and alongwith layers of Sagaun leaves it is used to make roofs of huts.

fresh pug marks of a leopard who crossed the tract we were walking

Bison with his horns peeled the bark of this young ghiria tree.We were told he loves to taste the bark of these trees as it is very soft.

                                                  our guide Laxman with Sunder.

                                                       Big sized mushrooms

River Denwa---The boat which brought us to jungle

                                                   The water body on the other end

                                              crocodile bark tree---local name saj

The elegant Bhoj patra tree.The bhoj patra on which our rich ancient literature was written

Sugner grass used to prepare brooms.

marks of paw scratches by leopard

                                                The delicate Lavender flower

The Baber grass used to make rope.

                                 

Pics   by sunder iyer and namita sunder