Panchvati

The story of Ramchandra, the prince of Ayodhya is the one of the most told stories of our country. It has been written in peotry and prose, the story of lord Ram is depicted in various forms of paintings, staged as dramas and its reach extended wider after a television serial was made on the story, which was seen at all the corners of the country, in fact in every form of expression Rama's story exists with us, becoming almost a part of our lives, it is interwoven in our very being. Temples of Ramchandra, ancient and recent, are found all over the country. Ayodhya, Bithoor, Chitrakoot, Rameswaram are some of the the places which depict and preserve various episodes of his life.

Ramayana, the epic based on Rama's life provides insight into various aspects of indian culture, despite all the scientific and technological progress it still contiues to influence the social, religious and the art forms of modern india.

On my recent visit to Pilani in Rajasthan, i got a chance to see another such manifestation of one of the most important part of Ramas's life, his stay in Panchvati. During his vanvaas rama, along with Sita and Laxman roamed around in the dense forests for many years, then on the advice of rishi Agastya he made his parnkuti and started living in Panchvati. It was in Panchvati only that Soorpnakha saw Laxman, Maarichi came in the form of deer to lure Sita and Ravana abducted Sita.

This Panchvati in Pilani is built and run by Birla trust. Its in a very large area full of various species of shrubs, bushes and cactus, giving a forest like aura with many dense and huge trees, kachchha rasta and  pagdandis run midst the jungle and midst this befitting backdrop are built life size statues essaying various episodes of Ramas life. Miles and miles of alleovera plants grow under these shrubs along the pagdandi and which mix deep into the forest.

let us enter panchavati....................

 है प्रभु परम मनोहर ठाऊँ। पावन पंचबटी तेहि नाऊँ।

hai prabhu manohar thanu[place].pavan panchvati tehi naau.

चले राम मुनि आयसु पाई। तुरतहिं पंचबटी निअराई।।

 chale ram muni aayasu paai.turtahi panchvati niyarai.

 

 

he is Goswami Tulsidas  .When we entered this Panchvati ,evening was fast approaching.The lengthening shadows, the quiet created such a soothing impact .............i just wanted to be back in time.

 

 

 

-कर सरोज सिर परसेउ कृपासिंधु रधुबीर।।

निरखि राम छबि धाम मुख बिगत भई सब पीर। 

kar saroj sir parseyu kripasindhu raghubeer 

nirakhi ram chhavi dham mukh bigat bhaisab peer

 

 To me this episode when Ram met the wounded Jatayu and asked him about Sita's whereabouts, always appears to underline the importance of harmonious existance of all forms of life.we all need one another.

 

 

 

Battle between two brothers Bali and Sugreev 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

he khag mrig ,he madhukar shreni  ,tum dekhi kahu sita mrignayni.

 

हे खग म्रिग हे मधुकर श्रेनि्  तुम  देखि  कहु सीता म्रिग नयनि

 

Ram and Laxaman in search of Sita after she was abducted by Ravana. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

jo prabhu par avasi ga chachahu ,mohi pad padum pakharan kahahu

जोप्रभु पार अवसि गा चहहु,मोहि  पाद पदुम पखारन कहहु

Ram wanted to cross the river and boatman insisted that before stepping on the boat he would clean his feet with his hands.Beautiful relationship between God and devotee.If the devotion is pure and deep ,the devotee can ask god for his love rightfully.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

सीता परम रुचिर मृग देखा। अंग अंग सुमनोहर बेषा।।
सुनहु देव रघुबीर कृपाला। एहि मृग कर अति सुंदर छाला।।

सत्यसंध प्रभु बधि करि एही। आनहु चर्म कहति बैदेही।। 

 

sita param ruchir mrig dekha ,ang ang sumanohar vesha

sunahu dev rahgubeer kripala ,ehi mrig kar ati sundar chhala

satyasindhu prabhu badhi kari ehi ,aanahu charm kahati vaidehi.

 

sita pointing towards the golden deer and requesting ram to bringit's skin for her. 

 

 

तेहि बन निकट दसानन गयऊ। तब मारीच कपटमृग भयऊ।। 

 

tehi ban nikat dasaanan gayau.tab maareech kapat mrig bhayau 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 Bharat taking Rama's khadhayu with him to keep it on throne.He agreed to perform king's duty on behalf of rama.

sacrifice of worldly comforts,power and luxury on call of duty,protecting the just and right is one message which nicelywoven into this saga.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

  

 

 

 

shyam gaur sunder dou bhai, sabri pari charan laptai.

 

kand mool fal suras ati diye ram kahun aani

prem sahit prabhu khaye barambar bakhani

 

bhagati heen nar sohai kaisa, binu jal vaarid dekhau jaisa

 

 

 

 

 

Though nothing kind of architectural splendour, panchavati touches the hearts due to it's natural and rustic appeal. Simple villagers, rural folk, old ladies, standing before the statues with folded hands, sometimes even with wet eyes imagining the hardships faced by lord ram, laxman and sita during the vanvaas and that is the spirit, the soul of our land where emotions and devotion rule the hearts.

 

(pictures copyright: sunder iyer)

© namitasachan., all rights reserved.

Laxmi Narayan temple of Chamba

Chamba in Himachal pradesh is a small town located between the  mountain ranges of Zanskar and Dhauladhar. The town stands on a plateau on the banks of river Raavi.

The journey from Dalhousie to  Chamba was steeped  in the fragrant jungle wind. The curvy road passed through the sylvan surroundings. After every curve the magical mountains unfolded an enchanting panorama of nature's beauty. Dense rows after rows of pines climbing from valley to the hill top looked like majestic monks on a journey for search of self. The small villages of hardly twelve to fifteen houses nestled in the deep valley filled heart with an unsaid sadness. So lonely and disconnected from the world they looked. Next moment a tree laden with bright golden coloured leaves stood there on the next turn as if just to cheer us up.

But as the taxi entered the town premises I started feeling a bit disappointed. While travelling  I was anxiously waiting for raavi. We met raavi as we touched the border of chamba but it's plight saddened me. Raavi flows skirting the town. Standing on the roadside you directly face and feel the river.on other bank stands the lofty mountain ranges. How lovely and beautiful it could have been if not for the garbage dumped on the pebbles and stones bordering the stream. Perhaps it was the time when water level in raavi was comparatively low and the waste was dumped there to be carried away when raavi swells up in rains. The road to the parking area was crowded and dusty. The entire area itself was very crowded surrounded by busy markets from all the sides. A kind of haphazard mismanagement reigned there. Anyway, we asked directions for Laxminarayan temple and started walking through the narrow crowded lanes of market. After a five minute walk we started climbing a small hilly road lined on both the sides by all kinds of shops of daily use goods. A small turn and we were at the entrance of Laxminarayan temple compound.

All my disappointment and apprehensions were washed away by the sheer serenity of the architecture that stood before me. The temple compound is encircled by very high walls and that keeps the busy market noise and scenes far away from it. It was past 12 when we entered the compound, the gates of shrines were closed but that gave us enough time and occasion to soak in the magnificence of the temples.

The compound has five more big temples besides Laxminarayan temple. These are consecrated to two gods ...three to lord shiva and the other three to vishnu. The main Laxminarayan temple was built by Raja Shail Varman in 10th century A.D. There are  also other smaller temples and shrines in the compound .

All the six temples stand  side by side on stony platform. The temples with their magnificent shikhara, intricate carvings and detailing are insignia of medieval architecture. The shikharas of temples are composed of miniatures of itself, all grouped in an orderlyway. The outer walls are broken into many layers to give a circular impression. The shikhara culminates into a circular disc shaped structure at the top above which rests the dazzling kalash.

While the doors of garbhagraha (sanctum sanctorum) were closed we roamed around marveling at the carvings on the outer walls.

Then I sat down on the platform facing the temples, threw my head back and tried to fix my gaze on the finials of shikharas. The glorious blue sky glowed above and the pointed kalash, as if reached out to the unknown or created a passage for us to transcend to the unseen. My heart filled with peace . It is said that in nagara style of temple there is a structure called gavaksh in the shikhara. This gavaksh is a closed window kind of structure. Symbolically it denotes that open space from where the God above pours his grace on the deity installed by man in the inner sanctorum. At that particular moment I felt that several gavakshas have been opened in the sky itself and God is pouring his grace on me. Oh, how fulfilled I felt.

It was 2.30 p.m. by now ,time of reopening of the garbhgrah doors. We walked towards the temple. There is a mandap in front of Laxminarayan temple. In the mandap on a wooden bed were placed some musical instruments, perhaps for the time of bhajan recital and aarati etc. Laxminarayan idol looked magnificent and resplendent in bright coloured costumes and dazzling ornaments. The idol is of marble and clothes around it are wrapped in accretionary style.

After Laxminarayan we once again went to other shrines in the compound that is of radha krishna, chandra gupta mahadeva, gaurishankar mahadeva, mahamrityunjay mahadeva and laxmi damodar.

Though the temple of Laxminarayan was erected by Shail Varman in 10th century but it is said that additions and decorations were added by other kings and members of royal family later on. Raja balbhadra added the metallic image of garuda on a high pillar on the main gate. In most of the temples devoted to vishnu  garuda is placed.restoration work was conducted by raja pratap singh varman during 16th century.

The temple of radha krishan was constructed by Rani sharda widow of raja Jeet singh.

There is a legend related to this temple.It is said that Raja Shail varman sent his nine sons to far off mountains to bring a block of marble to built the idol .The block was brought but when broken to shape it a frog was found inside it .The slab was declared unsuitable and sons were once sent to bring another slab. unfortunately this time all the sons were killed by robbers. Then the eldest son Yogakar was deputed to fulfill the mission. He defeated the robbers and returned with ideal slab, which was used to carve the idol of Laxmi narayan. It is also said that Raja Shail verman renounced his kingdom in favour of his son yogakar and went to live in the ashram of his guru Charpatnath.

It is believed that the outer walls of temple and the pradikshnapath are adorned by varios images of gods and goddesses, other divine symbols so that while circumambulating the devotees might feel the divine presence .The aura of inner sanctum can be maintained .My experience in the Laxminarayan temple compound fully endorse this belief. The area reverberates with pulsating divine presence even when the doors of garbhgruha are closed........

a portion of shikhara with miniatures of itself carved on the outer wall

 

carvings on the outer wall...........the first one....trimurti or brahma on lotus ?second one must be kartikeya as peacock is the vahana...

 

An overview of temple compound

 

(All pics by Sunder Iyer)

 

 

 

© namitasachan., all rights reserved.