A morning in a village on hills of West Bengal

 While travelling from Ryshop to Kelimpong we stopped at this village for breakfast and tea. On the side of the road was a small shop. A middle aged lady was managing the shop. She was selling every thing from eatables to medicines, from bangles bindis to diapers.In her small shanty she had arranged everything. At one corner near a small window was placed a plastic table and two- three chairs. here she served noodles, momos to travelers. She was lively, hospitable and by talking to travelers from all parts of country has gathered quite a good knowledge of geography and customs and rituals of far off states. The village was perhaps named Ladam. On one side of road were few houses while others could be seen in the valley nestled between greenery . From here one road climbed up towards Lava. Our driver told us that while going we had took that road. The day had just begun. Clouds were rising slowly from valley, starting their journey to the high spiral of stately pines and then beyond .This gentleman sitting between two houses was perhaps trying to shake off his slumber.

 

On the road cattle were up and ready to go to green meadow. Women folk had slowly geared up to their day's chores. The boy in blue t-shirt. I forgot his name but I had a long chat with him. He was student of twelfth standard, commerce stream. I was quite impressed by his awareness level. He knew all about other state boards syllabus and pattern and had a fair idea about career option open to him. Living in  a village in remote hills with few houses, walking on foot daily to his college ...what was his source of update information I wondered.

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Most of the youngsters of the village  were quite smartly dressed. Besides the young boy I talked earlier this girl standing besides Sunder too was very confidant and dressed in tight fitting jeans with a leather jacket to compliment it.She too was resident of  Ladam only.

He is Ganesh, student of class seventh.He too walks miles to his school.

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This is the temple in the valley.

We might have stopped here for an hour or so but from hot, delicious breakfast, interacting with village residents to enchanting nature, I loved every bit of it.

Loleygaon

Loleygaon is a small Lepcha village. It lies at the altitude of approximately 1670 meters.Loleygaon is about 124 Km from New Jalpaiguri. It takes about four hours to reach Loleygaon by road from NJP via Kelimpong. From Lava, Loleygaon is about 24 Kms away. It comes under the Kelimpong 1 block in the Darjleeng district  of West Bengal.

Loley gaon has few wonderful points to enjoy the beauty of Kanchenjunga range and sunrise but as we visited the place in rainy season, we did not go there. We could not walk even on the famous hanging bridge as due to heavy rains it was closed on the day we visited there .

But due to abundance of surreal clouds walking from all sides we enjoyed an entirely different beauty of the famous Loleygaon forest. A long stretch of road passing through exuberant jungles on both the sides was bumpy, strewn with pebbles .Giant sized trees  with moss covering their boles stood there with arms widely outstretched. Wild creepers hung from branches and swing from tree to tree.Wet moss grew even on creepers hanging downward. It felt like traveling back in time, ages back at the time of the planet being uninhabited. The grey white clouds swirling in the forest created a mysterious world.Rain lashed on the window panes with wild  fury perhaps it did not like our intrusion into the solemn world of nature.

Forest from a distance appeared one green,grey, white like vast expanse of ocean but come closer and it broke into different forms--- fresh, radiant green ferns standing tall like trees and bushes, gracefully curved tall bamboos like explosion of green, stealthily tip toeing lights and shadows, fallen trees and above all the pulsating stillness , the complete silence yet alive with anticipation. A twig snapped somewhere, someone scurried unseen, a shrill voice of unknown bird exploded across entire jungle

 Loleygaon forests cast spell. They not only engulf you, swallow you but they step inside you, they  spread within and then everything else fades in the background .

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                                                               varied moods of Loleygaon forest

                                               The hanging bridge, the canopy walk{ we missed walking on it as it was closed on that day}

These above three are the pictures of a monastery[ rather it was more like a temple of Buddha] and a temple on our way from Lava to Loleygaon. Barring a very small shrine dedicated to Lord Hanuman on a roadside rock on way to Kolakham from New Jalpaigudi this was the first temple we came across during our travels. The shrine is dedicated to Lord Shiva but these two shivlingas with nagas are erected in open.The temple can be seen behind Buddha's statue in the first picture. Standing Buddha too is very rare. May be it's a monastery in making. This place was referred to us by the lady of the eatery at Lava where we had our breakfast.


Pictures by Sunder Iyer.

Monastery at Lava

Jamgon Kongtrul Monastery

A soft and cooling air breathed along the solitary corridors. The sunlight  filtering into the prayer hall through  windows tinged the ornamented roof and massive red pillars with a thousand various tints of light and colours:  Universal silence prevailed around. The calm of the moment and tranquility of the place contributed to nourish.the peaceful solemnity of mind. We were the only ones in the vast spacious prayer hall of Jamgon Kongtrul Monastery at Lava, West Bengal.

In 1987 Buddhist community present in Lava offered  about 3 acres of land to the third Jamgon Kongtrul Rinpoche for building a monastery for the local community of lava and now it's a very well maintained monastery thriving with various spiritual activities, discourses, workshops etc.

I had read somewhere that in ancient Sumerian a standing statue with folded hands was placed on the top of a temple high above the village. This statue  in continuous prayer mode reperesented the common who could not get enough time to devote to pray God as he is busy with the activities necessary for his survival, necessary for running his day to day life, In Buddhism the monks living in monasteries and viharas pray on behalf of the common man.







 There were two prayer halls facing each other. These halls were adorned with multi coloured bright and intricate murals and frescos. The images on ceiling, walls, and pillars did not appear to be of merely decorative purpose.  I felt that their significance goes beyond the aesthetic beauty. Each of them tried to impart some lesson perhaps, conveyed some deeper reality. Against the rear wall  were enshrined the idols of  Buddha and others[ Buddhas or Bodhistavas, I don't know] in meditative postures, resplendent in Gold, eyes closed, total calm and serenity exuding from their being. The idols felt so alive. Looking at those faces I felt like being transcended to another realm.

 In between these halls was open compound while on the back was a building in which classes for monks were being conducted. Behind this frontal area down the stairs were residential accommodations of monks and a  room with two huge prayer wheels.Around the room on the outer wall were smaller prayer wheels.

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                                                   Residential buildings for the monks.

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Inside the room with big prayer wheels. One can be seen on the left side in the picture.

                                              Exterior of the rooms with the prayer wheels,

 A long shot the room with prayer wheels. We can see it at the back end. Behind that lay the Lava town.These white colored bells in row stood on the wall . Below is picture of lower portion of that wall.

 In Buddhism this unique way of chanting prayer/ mantra while going on rotating the wheels.....what does it signifies? Does it signify setting the universal forces in motion? Or it symbolizes  the cosmic rotation of planets on their axis, revolving of all the planets around the sun, on which depends the existence of  our entire universe? All these questions are arising in my mind while I sit at home penning my memories of the travel but when in monastery, be it prayer halls or open spaces questions did not even occur. There it was total acceptance , surrender and serenity. Such was the aura of the place.

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I sat on the bench in open facing the distant range of mountains.The delicious wind brought the fragrance of unknown virgin blossoms. The clouds  as if being boiled in a big cauldron rose from invisible valley and hid the distant mountain range, while another caravan of clouds descended from the other end and floated hurriedly to embrace others. The suddenness  of changing forms  and shapes was overwhelming. A divine drama was being enacted on vast open stage and I sat there engrossed, completely forgetting myself, letting myself be merged with it. Felt like a bird soaring high, free and far away.
I had read somewhere that in Tibetan Buddhism white cloud,which can assume any form is regarded as a symbol of mind .It is considered to be the ideal medium to  create the enraptured mind. Perhaps that is why most of the monasteries were established in the lands of clouds. I do not  know much about Buddhism and it's ways but sitting there that day experienced the spell of clouds and abandoned myself to their realm.

When we entered the monastery sky was loaded with dark clouds. Monastery tucked midst the floating clouds looked mystique and unapproachable and while returning dazzling blue sky smiled upon us. Multi colored prayer flags fluttered in wind rising higher and higher. Feathery white clouds sailing across limitless sky invited us to take the voyage to the yonder lands. I returned with my heart full of hope, peace and faith.

All the pictures by Sunder Iyer.


.Lava is 32 kms from Kalimpong town. The closest railway station is NJP at a distance of 120kms. Taxis and shared jeeps are easily available there which takes about three 3.5 hours to reach lava. Bagdogra is the nearest airport.

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Days at Kolakham

Enjoying throughout our way a rich variety of experiences and scenery we reached Kolakham at about  3P.M. It had stopped raining but earth was still wet and vegetation moist. Sparkling water drops adorned the purple and white flowers on the roadside. Rejuvenating wind danced on playful melodies.A calm stillness prevailed all around.Silence and serenity were refreshing.
 The only road lazily walking in between few houses was totally empty.Not even a single human being was seen and no sound was heard. Hardly eight or ten guest houses and cottages were there and all of them except the one which we had booked were locked and closed . We were the only tourist in Kolakham on that day.
It is a small village. Home of a few Nepali families.With recent tourist influx few cottages/rooms have been built on roadside in front of and above their own homes.These structures are a mix of cement, mortar, wood and tin.Have colorful exterior and are very neat, clean, comfortable. Kolakham does not have any kind of shop or any other business activity. No provision store, no vegetable shop, no tailor or barber. It's unadulterated, pristine beauty and the calm pace of life soothes the soul. 
A magnificent view of majestic Kanchanjangha Range can be enjoyed from Kolakham.  June is not the month for those mesmerizing views when peaks stand resplendent in all their white glory and the alpenglow leaves you awestruck. but during this time of year rain has it's own songs and ever changing shapes, volumes and colors of clouds enact ethereal plays.
After keeping our luggage in the room we came down in the kitchen cum dining space . The lady of the house managed all the chores without any help.Rows of sparkling utensils were arranged on the cupboard. The colorful crockery was displayed aesthetically. Everything around was neat, clean, fresh and properly placed. commendable job by the lady. She was a woman of few words but very attentive to all our needs.As we sat with our bowls of freshly prepared , steaming wai-wai on the table, the green distant hills and swirling clouds could be enjoyed from the wide open window.
Dusky shadows of evening were slowly spreading it's wings . Soon it was to be dark so we wanted to spend as much time as possible outside in the open. With our cups of tea we walked outside and sat on the logs on the roadside. Our hostess was busy inside home and outside there was no one else except us. With tea we sipped tranquility too.
The closest hills with houses nestled in the arms of emerald stretches looked happy while the farthest chain stood as if in thoughtful, brooding mood. clouds surged, swelled, rose high, flew wide. On one second the clouds tapped lightly on the broad chests of hill to pen down an eternal ode to love while on another rushed madly to squeeze them in tight embrace. For a fleeting moment a part of hills stood bathed in celestial, silken light while other sat brooding in dark. Such a stupendous show by nature, overwhelmed I felt.
After some time a cute girl aged about 10 arrived and sat smiling next to us. She was Anu.. We chatted for long about Anu's school--- Kanchenjunga school, her love for dance, her dream to be a police officer in future and many other things. She struck a chord with me and opened up easily. We talked about various flowers found in Kolakham and vibrantly colored butterflies. Putaali-- yes Putaali means butterfly. Anu taught me this Nepali word and she herself was my putaali, ever smiling and loving.

                                      

                                                                      Anu, my Putaali

Anu in front of her home

Anu got up and came to me with that red flower blooming in the small pot in front of her home. What a lovely gift! I had a colorful band on my wrist .Anu liked it and we exchanged our gifts. She will always remain in my memory.

Look at the little heroine of the village. She was the most stylish kid of the whole lot and she knew it.

He was the naughtiest one of the entire group of the kids. I asked him who had cut his hair in such a stylish way. The village don't have even a barber's shop. He smiled and said." my elder brother' .As far as the dress sense, the fashion was concerned all the inhabitants, grown ups or young ones all were well versed with the latest fashion, clothing trends etc. And they carry it with full confidence.

He is Suraj. After he returned from school we had a long chat. sitting on the platform of this cottage at the curve of the lane. He told me that every child of the village go to nearby town  to study after completing fifth standard in village school. He himself is a student of seventh standard. It takes two hours to go to school, while approximately one hour to return. .The town is situated on a higher altitude than Kolakham so more time to reach . Daily three hours on foot (8km up and 8km down) yet they are so happy and energetic, even in the evening while returning from school.

On the only lane of Kolakham with the kids.

These kids are students of class eleventh. After twelfth they will go to Kalimpong for further studies. The day we left Kolakham in the morning. Sky was heavily clouded and about to rain. These children and we by now recognized one another. So we offered to drop them upto their school as we were heading in that direction only. Thanks kiddos for those lovely moments full of laughter and joy. May all your dreams come true.

And look at this group of kids.I got down from vehicle to meet them. They were going to their school, walking on foot offcourse. Each and every child of the village go to school. Neatly dressed, all smiles, walking on foot.....like those vigorously blooming roadside bushes these children too are a sight that fills heart with inexplicable joy.

Lifting the bluish white veil of shiny clouds tender fingers of morning sun caress the tips of majestic coniferous trees to wake them up from their reveries and these girls are up, ready and walking ahead with determined steps.

The valley below was a vast ocean of green, swelling and ebbing with light and clouds. Castles of clouds, melodious songs of birds, stupendous pine trees with their heads held high, stately hills.....I just can't thank you enough God for that wonderful evening, for magnificent nature, for the limitless vastness, for that amazing feeling of liberation.

An ode to eternal love penned by early morning light in the heart of hills.your whole being shine in glorious luminosity when you bask in radiance of love.

 Like fairy's gown white clouds twirls and whirls all around green hills and hills stand smiling drenched in celestial grace.

 An orange wreath adorn the stately heads of distant hills while the white veil of nearby range is blown by frolicsome wind.

 The snowy summits of Kanchenjunga looms in the distance.Though during june, july i.e. rainy season it's very difficult to get a glimpse of peak but we were lucky to be blessed by the mesmerizing view of the range. It rained in the night and early morning in the backdrop of glittering blue sky we enjoyed the clear view of snow capped peaks and then clouds from valley started rising slowly hiding the peaks. As if the doors of sanctorum were closed after divine darshanam.

This is our home stay at Kolakham. The balcony from where we enjoyed the uninterrupted show of clouds in valley, hills and the farthest range.



This stay at Kolakham was a perfect mix of people and nature, rather for me those kids too were part of nature.



All the pictures by Sunder Iyer
















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