A walk in jungle

On reaching Satpura National park we were informed that they offer three ways to explore the jungle--- a safari in open jeeps, an elephant ride and a jungle walk. We decided to go on the jungle walk first, the same evening.

Our guide Laxman was at our room on 3.15 p.m. and we walked towards the bank of the river to take the boat. The boat drops the travelers at a particular spot from where the walk on fixed route starts.

At the time we started  the sun was still high and shinning in the sky. The golden ball glittered brilliantly. It’s deep reaching fingers tickled the amazingly blue waters of the river and waves glee in silvery mirth. The  tinkling of countless ripples filled the air with sonorous raptures. On one side of the river the jungle stood in quite a close proximity to the river bank while on the other far off stretch of the trees could be seen shrouded in a haze behind the green ground rolling off for miles and miles. The boat drive was of around 5 kms and it dropped us at the spot from the jungle trek had to start.

Getting down from the boat we climbed slightly rising ground to reach the level of the forest. Laxman had a tranquilizing spray and a lathi with him. We guessed that this must be relatively safer area of the forest, that is why the walk is organized on this side of the forest. Laxman in his solemn voice informed us about the dos and dont's in case of sudden encounter with wild bear etc and that combined with the resounding silence of jungle set the mood of  thrill and anticipation. Every few steps our guide stopped to show us fresh pug marks on the soil on the track we were walking, clawing of the bark of trees by bears and leopards. Even the slightest sounds on the dry leaves covering the ground made us alert. We did see few harmless animals like deer, sambhar, langoors and wild boars and learnt a lot about local trees, plants and variety of grass.

From the boat the jungle looked united, an entity in itself but as we approached closer it started separating- the individual trees, the thickets, the foliage, exotic sounds, spill of sunlight, patches of light and shadow, crackling of dried leaves, snapping of twigs, insects, silences, each of these distinct yet inter-woven.

The cool shade inside the jungle was very comforting. Enough light penetrated through the vegetation to make us see upto long distances but it was not difficult to imagine what an eerie feel it would give once the darkness descends. However at the moment the mellow evening light filtering through the forest touched every leaf, every tuft of grass as if with a magic wand. The tall stately trees stood wrapped in haloed aura and the smaller plants, bushes, grass, the entire thicket knelt before them in complete devotion.

After almost an hour and half long walk through the forest we reached a clearing where an immense water body simmered lazily .The sun glowed on the other side of waters. The forest  on this side stood in revering silence. How we wished to enjoy the beauty of sunset in that panoramic setting but that was not to be. We could not have stayed there up to sun set as we needed to cross the forest while returning to the other side and walking through forest in dark was not advisable. Anyway we enjoyed what lay before us stopping there for few moments. The area was haven for birds. Like solitary thinkers few perched on dried stumps here and there. Others nibbled on the wet mud toddling in groups. In between the flocks of   few others flew majestically setting a harmonious rhythm in the air.

We returned via another route. This  was almost on the periphery of the jungle. The shadows had become darker. Though unseen the shuffling activities deep inside forest could be felt. May be the young ones were being herded to safety after  prancing and frolicking the whole day out, the adults were retracing their steps back to home, heavy hoofs, deep grunts. The pulsating presence of a world so different  yet so near created a strange mixture of feelings of  trepidation and fascination.

After about  8 to 10 Km. walk  we reached the appointed spot at about 6 P.M. By that time the boat too had arrived to pick us up. Lowering ourselves on the boat seats we threw a glance towards jungle. It stood there silent, dark  and closed. 

An ant hill dug by bear to taste the fresh ants.

Chinda grass.This grass is used to make brooms and alongwith layers of Sagaun leaves it is used to make roofs of huts.

fresh pug marks of a leopard who crossed the tract we were walking

Bison with his horns peeled the bark of this young ghiria tree.We were told he loves to taste the bark of these trees as it is very soft.

                                                  our guide Laxman with Sunder.

                                                       Big sized mushrooms

River Denwa---The boat which brought us to jungle

                                                   The water body on the other end

                                              crocodile bark tree---local name saj

The elegant Bhoj patra tree.The bhoj patra on which our rich ancient literature was written

Sugner grass used to prepare brooms.

marks of paw scratches by leopard

                                                The delicate Lavender flower

The Baber grass used to make rope.

                                 

Pics   by sunder iyer and namita sunder

Temples of Chamba

Chamba in Himachal pradesh is a small town located between the  mountain ranges of Zanskar and Dhauladhar. The town stands on a plateau on the banks of river Raavi.

The curvy roads passing through sylvan surroundings, majestic mountain ranges, the dense pine forests, small villages nestled in the deep valleys such various panoramic views around Chamba makes it any nature lover’s delight. But for me the most fascinating things about Chamba were it’s beautiful temples. Specially The Laxmi Narayan temple.

The Laxmi Narayan temple compound had six big temples and many other smaller shrines dedicated to various Gods. The main shrine is of Laxmi Narayan. Others are consecrated to lord shiva and lord Vishnu.

All the six temples stand side by side on stony platform. The temples with their magnificent shikhara, intricate carvings and detailing are insignia of medieval architecture. The shikharas of temples are composed of miniatures of  temple itself, all grouped in an orderly way. The outer walls are broken into many layers to give a circular impression. The shikhara culminates into a circular disc shaped structure at the top above which rests the dazzling kalash.

The temple dates back to 10^th century A.D. Laxmi Narayan temple remains closed for about 2 hours in noon. From 12.30 to 2.30. In fact when we reached there the shrine doors were closed hence we waited there in compound after taking a round of the compound and enjoying the beautiful carvings. That waiting time was one of the blessed experience of my life. As I sat down on the platform facing the temples, threw my head back and tried to fix my gaze on the finials of shikharas. The glorious blue sky glowed above and the pointed kalash, as if reached out to the unknown or created a passage for us to transcend to the unseen. My heart filled with peace.  It is said that in nagara style of temples there is a structure called gavaksh in the shikhara. This gavaksh is a closed window kind of structure. Symbolically it denotes that open space from where the God above pours his grace on the deity installed by man in the inner sanctorum. At that particular moment I felt that several gavakshas have been opened in the sky itself and God is pouring his grace on me. Oh, how fulfilled I felt.

Quite near to this famous temple of Chamba is a comparatively lesser know temple of Harinarayan.This temple was built in 11^th century a.d.Built in Shikhara style the temple is adorned with intricate carvings. Once this temple stood at the entrance of Chamba town. Though now midst the crowded market place, ,the temple still retains it’s architectural magnificence and spiritual appeal.

Chamunda devi temple in Chamba proved to be the best view point for us. We reached there at about 4 p.m.and the view of valley and river Ravi from the temple compound and stairs was spell binding. This temple is located on a comparatively higher point and is far away from the hustle bustle of market place and town. The compound has an ancient temple of nagar style dedicated to lord shiva and a wooden temple of pahadi style dedicated to devi chamunda. The distinct architecture of both the style has it’s own charm. The big peepal trees, the vermilion covered statues of various gods and goddess,the open compound and the  reigning peace make it a perfect place to spend few hours ,if you want to be with yourself, you need to be on journey within.

There are other famous temple sites near chamba such as Chaurasi temples of Bharmour.This place is about 65 km from chamba town.

The best time to visit the place from the point of view of enjoying the architectural magnificence is from September to November The rainy season being over and winters not yet fully arrived this is the best time to roam freely in the open compounds and premises of temples.

Chamba has a rich heritage of handicrafts and paintings.The chamba rumals,chappals and pahadi style paintings are unique expressions of other art forms of chamba.

Nearest airports to Chamba are Amritsar and Jammu which are around 190 kms. Chamba  is well connected by road from  Delhi and Chandigarh. Delhi is 627 kms and Chandigarh is 357 kms from Chamba. Regular buses ,taxis and coaches ply from both the places.Pathankot in Punjab is the nearest railway station about 119km from chamba.

All pics by sunder Iyer

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lyrical retreats...

The afternoon was clear, bright, full of blues and greens of nature. At a distance Denwa flowed majestically, resplendent under the glowing sun. Far off on the left the lone fisherman rowed his tiny boat. On the other bank stretches of green grass spread upto the distant huts. From the verandah of the forest guest house the lone vehicle parked near the watch tower on other side of river looked like a tiny match box.
  
A lull all around had a balmy effect, easing out the knots inside slowly and drawing me nearer to myself. The solitude was very comforting. The blissful feeling made me remember a line I read somewhere,'' When a truly great and unique spirit speaks, the lesser ones must be silent.'  I let myself be and surrendered to the nature around. Once you are really ready to communicate with the nature, it does respond.

The wind sensed my receptive mood and entered dancing and frolicking. It tingled almost dry, ripe leaves of Sagaun. The dozing leaves woke with a start and made an effort as if to scold the naughty wind but even the parched and broken sound emanating from their aged throats could not hide the bubbling happiness of their hearts. And why not ! for a languishing life what can be a greater pleasure than the lively, refreshing company of the exuberant young ones.
And then the wind stealthily entered the bamboo grooves and peeped into their privacy by gently blowing away the tightly drawn curtains. It's mischievous tinkling laughter filled the atmosphere with sonorous symphony.
A bird called out with a longing somewhere deep down the jungle and the wind suddenly stood silent and hushed as if to let the bird's call reach the one it was meant to. Buzzing of bumble-bee and humming of honey -bee echoed like soothing lull byes.
Being a part of something so serene and divine was a humbling experience. My heart filled with gratitude I slowly closed my eyes, but the wind had not yet called the day off. It suddenly sprang to dance with gusto and abandon and the stately Sagaun, Peepal and Semal joined in with rhythmic beats .The resonance of nature orchestra left me spell bound. Ah, it has so much to offer, so much to tell, we just need to tune in.  As suddenly as the wind appeared it retreated too and the hushed silence slowly crept in.
  
Being silent in nature is a kind of meditation. Beautiful rhythm of nature help us reconnect to lyrical scene, emotional beauty. Solitude that too midst such tranquil and panoramic vistas of nature are very enriching. It is definitely a very potential, charismatic phenomenon making oneself aware of one's inner being and outer things with crystal clarity. It energises one to plung in the depths of one's own being afresh and sets one to strike a diaolouge with divine. From tiny to gigantic everything in nature has a definite role assigned to it and all of them accept it serenely without questioning, without resisting. As somebody has put it very beautifully, ''the tree does not force its sap, but stands unshaken in the storms of spring with no fear that summer might not follow.'"
 

Pics by Sunder Iyer and namita sunder