Friday, August 12, 2011

Dakhineshwar ,an unforgettable experience..


We visited Dakhineshwar in April 2009,  but the experience is still alive within me. It is like a  tiny source  of softly glowing light, buried somewhere deep within me. Whenever i am with myself, i close my eyes and the light starts spreading slowly and i feel unburdened, free, floating. I am sure it's not only me. Many of us who visit this shrine of goddess Kali have similar experience. Divinity is alive there.You can feel it.
We were to go to kolkata for the first time but such were the compulsion of the time that we could not have spared more than three days. 4th april was the date of convocation of our elder son and on 12th of the same month the younger one had his IIT entrance exam.Obviously he was reluctant to leave but we would not have enjoyed the occasion if we left him alone at home. Hence we pursued him to come. We planned to leave on 3rd morning, attend the convocation on 4th and leave on 5th. In such a tight schedule we never thought or planned of going anywhere for sight seeing or shopping. We thought we will roam around in the campus of college .But few days before leaving suddenly i had this urge to visit Dakhsineswar. I did not think of it consciously but the wish as if sprang from somewhere within.while talking to Panchali, i told her about this sudden pull to the place and enquired about the distance between Joka and Dakhsineswar.She told me that both the places are quite far of from each other but in her placid reassuring way she added that when i was feeling that urge i shall definitely make to that place. Maa will see to it. Her words were like a stamp on agreement. I immediately felt at peace, and we got that one day extra in hand. Returning tickets on sunday that is 5th were not available and we had to make it on 6th.
Instead of just describing the place, the temple, why am i sharing all these things with you. because these seemingly small twists and turns strengthened my faith. If god wants something to happen, ways opens up. We can put it in other way, if we wish.............if we desire for something with sincerity and intensity we are  bound to get it. With that faith and composed heart we proceeded towards Dakhsineswar on the early morning of 5th of April.
This temple was built in 1857 by Rani Rasmati. It is said that Rani was to go to Varanasi on a pilgrimage, when Maa Kali appeared in her dream and asked her to built her temple on this particular place on the bank of river ganges, known as hoogly in that part of country. Maa told Rani that she will manifest herself in the form and accept worship on that place. Profoundly influenced by the dream Rani started making arrangements for building the temple.This shrine of goddess kali has a special significance with reference to  swami Ramkrishna paramhans and his disciple swami vivekanand. Ramkrishna Paramhans was  the younger brother of the first head priest of the temple.He was made the head priest after the early death of his brother however Ramkrishna was not able to continue as the priest of temple for a long time as he experienced the goddess on a different plane. His rare kind of love, the Maha Bhav for Maa was beyond the daily rituals and responbilities of a priest hence he detached himself from these activities and was merged in his sadhana. He had experienced many forms of god and goddesses here. His intense spiritual practices and ecstastic trances lent that totally different divine and sublime aura to the place.That divinity still can be felt there..the room where ram krishan used to meditate is still preserved in the temple complex.
  I consider myself to be blessed to be able to be there in Dakhsineswar. It was about 4.30A.M. when we reached there.The first aarati of the day was over and the doors of the shrine were closed to be reopened at 6.30 A.M. for the second aarati.
We strolled towards the ganges. Stepped down the stairs slowly and stood there mesmerized by the sheer magnitude of vastness.The holy water with a placid calmness stretched upto infinity.The twilight sky as if bowing low to embrace the divine stream appeared to be so close yet beyond the reach. We stood there with our feet dipped in water. We.........we means, i and Rajani, mother of another student. we have never known each other before but on that particular moment we stood there holding hands, feeling very close. With every passing moment our grip on each other hands tightened as if a bond is being established. We did not utter a single word but we knew what the other one is feeling. The devotees half dipped in water with folded hands, ladies performing certain puja at one corner, a floating deepak with flickering light moving forward with a rhythemic gait, the bridge at a distance stretching across the water, slowly moving boats and the shlokas, hymns circulating in the air, all wrapped up in misty cover of dawn, were taking us on a journey to beyond with the shackles of petty worries as if breaking slowly . Aah . How light and free i felt at that moment.
Behind us were the twelve temples of lord shiva in a row. Standing on a high platform, their spires going straight into the black clouds hovering over them, the temples looked so distant from the point where we stood. It was as if those are really located in the land of god, up there, somewhere high above in the neighbourhood of clouds.These temples stand on one side of the massive courtyard of temple. Six on one side and six on other side of ghat. Each temple houses one shivling naming Yogeswar, Jatneswar, Jatileswar, Nakuleswar, Nakeswar, Nirjareswar, Nareswar, Nandiswar, Nageswar, Jagdiswar, Jaleswar and Yajneswar. As if embodiment of twelve jyotirlingas of lord shiva, the temples are east facing.
In the enormous courtyard on a high platform with flight of stairs, stands the 100 ft high and almost 46 ft square building of main temple housing the shrine of Adyashakti Maa Kali. The roof of spires is beautifully ridged. It's breathtaking. Near it is a temple of radha krishan.
From ghat we went to the market selling the puja articles. In a long covered verandah, shops are built on both the sides. With bright red hibiscus and golden marigold flowers and garlands, the market looks vibrant .
We entered the courtyard and stood in the queue for darshan.The doors of shrine were still closed but devotees waited patiently. We were among the first few one standing on the platform .Queue behind us was slowly increasing. In front of south facing main temple is a long spacious nat mandir. many devotees sitting there were singing bhajans.Their voices steeped in devotion were stimulating.at 6.30 the doors of narrow covered verandah attached to sanctum were thrown open by pujari. We entered and witnessed the whole process of snan,shringar and aarati. With every step face of goddess appeared to change. It was so alive.The experience of looking into those eyes is unforgetable. Maa Bhavtarini,yes that is the form of goddess worshipped here as if takes you by hand to lead to that unknown journey of other world.
Goddess here stands with her feet on chest of lord shiva and both the images are placed on huge lotus flower made of silver.
After offering we sat on one side of the colossal temple complex.there were huge number of people in the courtyard still it was so peaceful .It was etheral.I sat silently as if coming to terms with myself.
i know,i have not been able to convey even miniscule of what i experienced , felt there.The experience was totally beyond words...............what they say like 'goonge ka gur'.
photography inside the courtyard is not allowed but i have some pics to share clicked from outside





Bally bridge,spanning Hoogly between Dakhsineswar and Uttarpara

ghat scenes ,early in the morning















.


God's abode..............the temple wrapped in clouds


these steps lead to river..........in the background is shiva temples side of temple .............


shiva temples in row

main entrace of the temple



side view of temple 




the colourful dalla arcade........the market where offerings to goddess are sold



the magnificent spiral of main temples built in navratna style of architecture
inside this is shrine of sri sri jagdishwari mahakali.

copyright of pics with sunder iyer and shubham sunder



© namitasachan., all rights reserved.

Saturday, July 23, 2011

Panchvati


The story of Ramchandra, the prince of Ayodhya is the one of the most told stories of our country. It has been written in peotry and prose, the story of lord Ram is depicted in various forms of paintings, staged as dramas and its reach extended wider after a television serial was made on the story, which was seen at all the corners of the country, in fact in every form of expression Rama's story exists with us, becoming almost a part of our lives, it is interwoven in our very being. Temples of Ramchandra, ancient and recent, are found all over the country. Ayodhya, Bithoor, Chitrakoot, Rameswaram are some of the the places which depict and preserve various episodes of his life.
Ramayana, the epic based on Rama's life provides insight into various aspects of indian culture, despite all the scientific and technological progress it still contiues to influence the social, religious and the art forms of modern india.
On my recent visit to Pilani in Rajasthan, i got a chance to see another such manifestation of one of the most important part of Ramas's life, his stay in Panchvati. During his vanvaas rama, along with Sita and Laxman roamed around in the dense forests for many years, then on the advice of rishi Agastya he made his parnkuti and started living in Panchvati. It was in Panchvati only that Soorpnakha saw Laxman, Maarichi came in the form of deer to lure Sita and Ravana abducted Sita.
This Panchvati in Pilani is built and run by Birla trust. Its in a very large area full of various species of shrubs, bushes and cactus, giving a forest like aura with many dense and huge trees, kachchha rasta and  pagdandis run midst the jungle and midst this befitting backdrop are built life size statues essaying various episodes of Ramas life. Miles and miles of alleovera plants grow under these shrubs along the pagdandi and which mix deep into the forest.
let us enter panchavati....................

 है प्रभु परम मनोहर ठाऊँ। पावन पंचबटी तेहि नाऊँ।
hai prabhu manohar thanu[place].pavan panchvati tehi naau.
चले राम मुनि आयसु पाई। तुरतहिं पंचबटी निअराई।।
 chale ram muni aayasu paai.turtahi panchvati niyarai.
 
 
he is Goswami Tulsidas  .When we entered this Panchvati ,evening was fast approaching.The lengthening shadows, the quiet created such a soothing impact .............i just wanted to be back in time.
 
 

 
-कर सरोज सिर परसेउ कृपासिंधु रधुबीर।।
निरखि राम छबि धाम मुख बिगत भई सब पीर। 
kar saroj sir parseyu kripasindhu raghubeer 
nirakhi ram chhavi dham mukh bigat bhaisab peer
 
 To me this episode when Ram met the wounded Jatayu and asked him about Sita's whereabouts, always appears to underline the importance of harmonious existance of all forms of life.we all need one another.
 
 

 
Battle between two brothers Bali and Sugreev 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
he khag mrig ,he madhukar shreni  ,tum dekhi kahu sita mrignayni.
 
हे खग म्रिग हे मधुकर श्रेनि्  तुम  देखि  कहु सीता म्रिग नयनि
 
Ram and Laxaman in search of Sita after she was abducted by Ravana. 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 

 
jo prabhu par avasi ga chachahu ,mohi pad padum pakharan kahahu
जोप्रभु पार अवसि गा चहहु,मोहि  पाद पदुम पखारन कहहु
Ram wanted to cross the river and boatman insisted that before stepping on the boat he would clean his feet with his hands.Beautiful relationship between God and devotee.If the devotion is pure and deep ,the devotee can ask god for his love rightfully.
 
 

 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 

 
 
सीता परम रुचिर मृग देखा। अंग अंग सुमनोहर बेषा।।
सुनहु देव रघुबीर कृपाला। एहि मृग कर अति सुंदर छाला।।
सत्यसंध प्रभु बधि करि एही। आनहु चर्म कहति बैदेही।। 
 
sita param ruchir mrig dekha ,ang ang sumanohar vesha
sunahu dev rahgubeer kripala ,ehi mrig kar ati sundar chhala
satyasindhu prabhu badhi kari ehi ,aanahu charm kahati vaidehi.
 
sita pointing towards the golden deer and requesting ram to bringit's skin for her. 
 

 
तेहि बन निकट दसानन गयऊ। तब मारीच कपटमृग भयऊ।। 
 
tehi ban nikat dasaanan gayau.tab maareech kapat mrig bhayau 
 

 
 
 
 

 
 
 Bharat taking Rama's khadhayu with him to keep it on throne.He agreed to perform king's duty on behalf of rama.
sacrifice of worldly comforts,power and luxury on call of duty,protecting the just and right is one message which nicelywoven into this saga.
 
 
 
 
 

 
 
  
 
 

 
shyam gaur sunder dou bhai, sabri pari charan laptai.
 
kand mool fal suras ati diye ram kahun aani
prem sahit prabhu khaye barambar bakhani
 
bhagati heen nar sohai kaisa, binu jal vaarid dekhau jaisa
 
 
 
 
 
Though nothing kind of architectural splendour, panchavati touches the hearts due to it's natural and rustic appeal. Simple villagers, rural folk, old ladies, standing before the statues with folded hands, sometimes even with wet eyes imagining the hardships faced by lord ram, laxman and sita during the vanvaas and that is the spirit, the soul of our land where emotions and devotion rule the hearts.
 
(pictures copyright: sunder iyer)

© namitasachan., all rights reserved.

Laxmi Narayan temple of Chamba


Chamba in Himachal pradesh is a small town located between the  mountain ranges of Zanskar and Dhauladhar. The town stands on a plateau on the banks of river Raavi.
The journey from Dalhousie to  Chamba was steeped  in the fragrant jungle wind. The curvy road passed through the sylvan surroundings. After every curve the magical mountains unfolded an enchanting panorama of nature's beauty. Dense rows after rows of pines climbing from valley to the hill top looked like majestic monks on a journey for search of self. The small villages of hardly twelve to fifteen houses nestled in the deep valley filled heart with an unsaid sadness. So lonely and disconnected from the world they looked. Next moment a tree laden with bright golden coloured leaves stood there on the next turn as if just to cheer us up.
But as the taxi entered the town premises I started feeling a bit disappointed. While travelling  I was anxiously waiting for raavi. We met raavi as we touched the border of chamba but it's plight saddened me. Raavi flows skirting the town. Standing on the roadside you directly face and feel the river.on other bank stands the lofty mountain ranges. How lovely and beautiful it could have been if not for the garbage dumped on the pebbles and stones bordering the stream. Perhaps it was the time when water level in raavi was comparatively low and the waste was dumped there to be carried away when raavi swells up in rains. The road to the parking area was crowded and dusty. The entire area itself was very crowded surrounded by busy markets from all the sides. A kind of haphazard mismanagement reigned there. Anyway, we asked directions for Laxminarayan temple and started walking through the narrow crowded lanes of market. After a five minute walk we started climbing a small hilly road lined on both the sides by all kinds of shops of daily use goods. A small turn and we were at the entrance of Laxminarayan temple compound.
All my disappointment and apprehensions were washed away by the sheer serenity of the architecture that stood before me. The temple compound is encircled by very high walls and that keeps the busy market noise and scenes far away from it. It was past 12 when we entered the compound, the gates of shrines were closed but that gave us enough time and occasion to soak in the magnificence of the temples.
The compound has five more big temples besides Laxminarayan temple. These are consecrated to two gods ...three to lord shiva and the other three to vishnu. The main Laxminarayan temple was built by Raja Shail Varman in 10th century A.D. There are  also other smaller temples and shrines in the compound .
All the six temples stand  side by side on stony platform. The temples with their magnificent shikhara, intricate carvings and detailing are insignia of medieval architecture. The shikharas of temples are composed of miniatures of itself, all grouped in an orderlyway. The outer walls are broken into many layers to give a circular impression. The shikhara culminates into a circular disc shaped structure at the top above which rests the dazzling kalash.
While the doors of garbhagraha (sanctum sanctorum) were closed we roamed around marveling at the carvings on the outer walls.
Then I sat down on the platform facing the temples, threw my head back and tried to fix my gaze on the finials of shikharas. The glorious blue sky glowed above and the pointed kalash, as if reached out to the unknown or created a passage for us to transcend to the unseen. My heart filled with peace . It is said that in nagara style of temple there is a structure called gavaksh in the shikhara. This gavaksh is a closed window kind of structure. Symbolically it denotes that open space from where the God above pours his grace on the deity installed by man in the inner sanctorum. At that particular moment I felt that several gavakshas have been opened in the sky itself and God is pouring his grace on me. Oh, how fulfilled I felt.
It was 2.30 p.m. by now ,time of reopening of the garbhgrah doors. We walked towards the temple. There is a mandap in front of Laxminarayan temple. In the mandap on a wooden bed were placed some musical instruments, perhaps for the time of bhajan recital and aarati etc. Laxminarayan idol looked magnificent and resplendent in bright coloured costumes and dazzling ornaments. The idol is of marble and clothes around it are wrapped in accretionary style.
After Laxminarayan we once again went to other shrines in the compound that is of radha krishna, chandra gupta mahadeva, gaurishankar mahadeva, mahamrityunjay mahadeva and laxmi damodar.
Though the temple of Laxminarayan was erected by Shail Varman in 10th century but it is said that additions and decorations were added by other kings and members of royal family later on. Raja balbhadra added the metallic image of garuda on a high pillar on the main gate. In most of the temples devoted to vishnu  garuda is placed.restoration work was conducted by raja pratap singh varman during 16th century.
The temple of radha krishan was constructed by Rani sharda widow of raja Jeet singh.
There is a legend related to this temple.It is said that Raja Shail varman sent his nine sons to far off mountains to bring a block of marble to built the idol .The block was brought but when broken to shape it a frog was found inside it .The slab was declared unsuitable and sons were once sent to bring another slab. unfortunately this time all the sons were killed by robbers. Then the eldest son Yogakar was deputed to fulfill the mission. He defeated the robbers and returned with ideal slab, which was used to carve the idol of Laxmi narayan. It is also said that Raja Shail verman renounced his kingdom in favour of his son yogakar and went to live in the ashram of his guru Charpatnath.
It is believed that the outer walls of temple and the pradikshnapath are adorned by varios images of gods and goddesses, other divine symbols so that while circumambulating the devotees might feel the divine presence .The aura of inner sanctum can be maintained .My experience in the Laxminarayan temple compound fully endorse this belief. The area reverberates with pulsating divine presence even when the doors of garbhgruha are closed........

chamba6n by namitasachan
a portion of shikhara with miniatures of itself carved on the outer wall
chamba5n by namitasachan

chamba4nn by namitasachan
 
carvings on the outer wall...........the first one....trimurti or brahma on lotus ?second one must be kartikeya as peacock is the vahana...
chamba3n by namitasachan

chamba1n by namitasachan
 
An overview of temple compound

 
(All pics by Sunder Iyer)
 
 
 
© namitasachan., all rights reserved.

Monday, May 30, 2011

Bheemashakar-----jyotirlinga


Nearly 140 km from Pune ,in the direction of Nasik is Bheemashankar,shrine of Lord Shiva and also one of the twelve jyotirlingas.It is said that after killing the demon Tripurasur,Lord Shiva sat on these hills for taking rest.In our mythological references this is described as one of the most fierce battles ever fought.The streams of sweat running down shiva's body gave birth to river bheemarathi.Like bhagirathi emerging from shiva's locks this river is also revered and most of the religious places of Maharashtra are situated on the bank of this river.originating from these hills of sahyadri Bheema flows southwards and mingles with krishna near Raichoor.In Pandharpur the river is known as Chandrabhaga.
Coming back to Bheemashankar temple,it's a modest structure in black stone.but the neatness and fineness of the sculpture stand unaffected by the weathering extremes of times.The temple dates back to eighteenth century.The temple complex houses various small temples of other Gods and Goddesses.There is a kund near temple .It is said that water in this kund comes from bheema river which snakes it's way to kund under the rocks and hills.All round the year pilgrims come to pay their homage to this seat of lord shiva but during shravan month ,the hills and forest around it reverberate with the continuous chants of om namo shivay..............the incessant rain ,the foggy forset,slippery rocks ,nothing deters devotees as they line up for hours for darshan and worship of swayambhoo shivlinga.
Besides the religious and mythological importance ,Bheemashakar allures the adventure loving trekkers and the nature's tapestry changing with season is intoxicating.
  I have once been to Bheemashankar during mansoon the dense mystique forests,the clouds walking beside me,the lashing rain,the pounding streams, every thing is still etched in my memory.It really felt like witnessing the raudra roop of lord shiva.But this time when we visited Bheemashankar last week the scenes were painted in different colours.It was quiet,colourful,smiling with benevolence.As the vehicle started climbing the hills nature started unfolding it's panoramas.The distant misty mountains were melting in the arms of flossy clouds.The blue ,the white at that end looked  dreamy.Lined on both the sides of road were bright blue ,mellow violet.sparkling yellow,white,pink coloured wild flowers.Nodding and dancing on the tune of wind the flowers looked like pretty little girls welcoming us ,wrapped in sweet smiles.In between hills and road stretched the lush green fields and meadows.The shepherds with their herds and a stick on shoulders looked peaceful ,in perfect harmony with nature.
As we climbed higher the tall trees walked close to us.their erect stately persona somehow looked very reassuring.as if trying to say........as long as we are there you can enjoy the bliss of cool.balmy air.the blues of sky,the greens of fields. you can have all as we are there with you.During mansoon we come across a roaring,gurgling waterfall after every half a kilometer or so but during this sunny day of october we could not witness waterfalls though we came across one or two trikling streams on the way. The one near the tea shop on the way was quite a lovely sight .
The Bheemashankar temple is midst the forest.These forests are home to many wild animals and is protected place for them.Bheemashankar has a wild life sacntuary too.Though its difficult to sight one while going to the temple.The forest stretches on both sides of the path leading to temple. narrow,muddy tracks lead to dense forest branching off the main guarded path leading to temple.we ventured into one of these.it laid to a clearing between tall trees.here was a small temple,a jal kund and few idols of unknown gods and goddesses under the open expanse of sky.beyond it on still higher altitude were tall,erect trees closely guarding the sactity of wilderness.often trekkers camp near the jungles.
The most spectular scene was behind devi kamalja mandir.From the height of approximately 3000 ft.,the villages in the valley below appeared almost flattened.Whole valley was immersed in the clouds.A translucent haze hung over the green expanse .Sloping down the hills ,from pinnacles to the valley ,were the streams of bright yellow flowers.In fact all around sprinkled in between the greenary these tiny yellow flowers imparted the valley it's magical beauty.They were every where............running down the hills encircling the valley,flanking the narrow track on either side,dancing on the precipices,at the feet of soaring trees,midst the clusters of bushes.there were flowers of myraid colours as well but yellow reigned the scene undisputedly. sonaki .painted the valley with golden hues.yes ,this tiny ,lively flower is known as sonaki in marathi The quiet here was engulfing.The only sound was buzzing of bees.All four of us were mesmerized by the beauty ,the magnificience before us.sons and father were busy clicking the shot and I as usual was sipping it drop by drop ,flower by flower.Here we met Blue Mormon,the elegent butterfly.we could not capture it in pic as it flutters every where with smooth swing of wings but seldom sits still.there were other species of butterflies but the place is famous for blue mormons.
Bheemashankar is very well connected to Pune and Nasik .People sometimes visit Bheemashankar on a days trip by chartered taxis or own vehicles but on the ways are various resorts.one resort the blue mormon is hardly 6 or 7 km. from the temple.state transport bus also goes upto temple.various food joints and snack bars are there.fresh.hot KHOA is speciality of the place.not to be missed item.
If you are headed from Pune to Nasik or vice versa plan to include a visit to Bheemashankar .It's definitely worth visiting.


the main shrine of bheemashankar temple with deepstambh in foreground.


the shani temple at the premises


carvings on the temple

carvings on the temple


a temple in the nearby forest.


a stream on way


on way to bheemashankar....through the clouds.


entrance of the temple


the calling of.....deep forests around the temple...


a sonaki couple...


tasting the sonaki


a dam on way.


the golden pastures


golden valley


quiet-cloudy pastures


floating clouds


bonus of the trip- sonaki


all the pictures are copyrighted by sunder iyer and shubham sunder