Gadaria Mahadev, Rajasthan

We started from Boondi to Gadaria Mahadev. After running on Jaipur Kota highway[ NH 52] for some time our vehicles turned and later on entered into an area having dry trees forest for a long stretch. Our vehicles ran on narrow uneven kachcha path and on both the sides stood short, dry trees with their arms extending to all sides. We have travelled through many dense tropical forests, forests of gigantic tall trees standing erect on high mountains but this one had an entirely different feel. As if each one of those trees has some tale hidden inside, a story different from that of lush green forests. This perhaps was part of Mukundra hills tiger reserve.  We visited the place with an intention to enjoy the spectacular view of famous turn of mighty Chambal river and the little shrine of Lord Mahadeva in the caves below.

As we reached the place from where we could see the Chambal river flowing down many feet below with hills standing guard on both the sides, the rugged panoramic beauty made us awestruck. We were the only visitors there at that time. As I said earlier the river flew many feet below from the place we were standing but it’s width and slow, grave flow gave a very clear idea of it’s depth. Watching it from the rocks above the force of flow, waves or the churning in the water can not be apprehended but even from that far one can feel the wild, mighty and profound nature of the river. It as if clearly cautions not to mess with her. But then there was that tiny dot like boat coursing through its flow, the sole boat slowly making it’s way towards some destination. Watching it intently at first I wondered how the person or persons in that boat could muster so much courage as to go down there in waters and why on earth he was rowing a boat there but then slowly once again the realization dawned upon me, how so ever defiant, imposing the nature and it’s forces might appear we need to surrender to them with complete faith and our boat would definitely reach its destination.

After enjoying the panoramic stretch for some time, we walked down to the shrine. On the way at some places steps are cut and on others rocks itself work as steps. Near the cave steps are cut, made properly. we reached the shrine. Three four locals were there. Pujari was there. He told us that he resides there only. In another very small chamber of cave his living quarters could be seen. High green trees surround the cave and down flows the Chambal. His living alone there in the wild surroundings once its totally dark, once again reinstated my faith in the miraculous powers of thoughts and beliefs.

By the time we reached the shrine the tiny boat which we watched from above too had reached there. Its sole occupant tied the boat with trunk of a tree and started climbing the steep rocky terrain to reach the cave. To us it felt very dangerous, but he moved forward with ease.

We spent some time offering pooja, talking to priest and locals and treasuring the enriching experience continued our onward journey.

 The place is about 20 Kms from Boondi.

All pics by Sunder Iyer.

Batu caves

Batu caves in kuala lumpur, Malaysia is a world famous tourist spot and we get enough material on internet regarding this place hence I am not writing much of the factual details about it. I would just share my own experiences of the place.

As we reached near the Devsthanam, we came to know that the temple built on the ground near the stairs leading to the caves closes in afternoon for few hours. As the time of closure was approaching, we decided to visit that temple first. It is a big temple with shrines of many deities. At the ground level in the center of the big hall is the shrine of amman. Entire big hall is adorned with bright coloured paintings of mythological significance, sculpted pillars and ceiling with beautiful designs. On one side of hall few steps lead to another hall. In this hall is shrine of Lord Shiva. This hall too is beautifully embellished. Though many visitors, devotees thronged the premises,  the place was perpetuated with a sense of calm and serenity. I sat down near a pillar facing Shivalinga And Nandi. Pujari was conducting a pooja on behalf of a family. The family members stood there with folded hands. The tinkling of bell, the echoing mantras, shlokas, the lighted lamps transported me to the realm of stillness.

After some time we came to the open ground adjacent to the temple and stood facing the enormous statue of Lord Murugan. The statue is about 43 meters high. It is said to be world’s highest statue devoted to Lord Murugan. The statue is painted in resplendent gold. On the back of statue were grey hills dotted with green trees, while the 272 steps leading to cave temples on the top of the hills were painted in green, yellow, red and blue. People in hundreds could be seen ascending and descending on the steps. Altogether it was a exhilarating experience to soak in the entire panoramic view. Standing on the ground it felt that the steps going up and then turning a bit towards were as if leading to the blue sky above.

The entrance of first cave is visible only when we complete ascending almost all the steps. Entrance is quite wide and lighted but as we enter the cave a world of diffused light and semi- dark welcomes us. A few steps from the entrance small drops of water kept on dripping from ceiling. As if a natural arrangement of purification of devotees by sprinkling of holy waters was there.

After descending few steps we reach a big cave which is approximately 300 ft high and abput 1200 ft. wide. On one side of this cave a colourful temple is there. Small brightly coloured edifices, peacocks, doors and pillars adorn this area. The other side of cave is in it’s natural rocky form. There is small opening to the sky at one corner of the cave and natural light filters in. Floodlights are there at many places in the cave and the place gets enough light to walk , sit and see. Somehow the floodlights are so placed that though they provide enough convenience to the tourists and devotees yet these don’t interfere with natural mystique aura of the semi- dark cave. I sat in this cave for quite some time watching the cervices, the shapes on rocks and imbibing the aura. Do you know what I felt sitting there. I felt as if that cave is symbol of our heart, wrapped in mystery, silence and darkness which starts dispersing once we let His light enter into.

Another flight of stairs from this cave lead us to a much smaller topless cave. High grey white rocks surround this somewhat level platform from all the sides but this cave is open to sky. Trees and plants on rocky walls add adequate freshness and softness to the rugged imposing rocks while the sky from up above stretch it’s benevolent shade over us, showers it’s grace over us. On this platform is shrine of Murugan with a covered verandah in front of it. The aura and form of this cave strengthened my perception of the cave below. This one, the more lighted one is a stage nearer to Him. When we welcome the light with open arms, All the negative thoughts, emotions clutching us tightly in their grip, when we loosen them, let them go slowly one by one light filters in and how unburdened we feel. Nature definitely has its own language to convey it’s messages.

There are few more temples on the ground level. Anjainaiya temple, museums.

Enough number of hotels and restaurants serving authentic vegetarian south Indian foods on banana leaves to north Indian, gujrati, Punjabi thali, snacks, fast foods, coconut water to cold drinks. Shops of souvenirs to utility items too are there.

exterior of the the temple at the ground level.

 Amman shrine

 Shiva shrine 

 Nandi in Shiva temple , outside the enclosure of the shrine.

Stairs leading to Shiva shrine

The first cave and temple there in.

 The main cave and shrine

The open ground in front of stairs leading to Batu caves. On the left side the wall of coloured pillars is the exterior view one side of The temple wall. This temple is quite big with impressive paintings and architecture inside. There are  shrines of many Gods and Goddesses in side this temple. In front you can see the impressive and very famous Murugan statue. The coloured steps going upwards lead to Batu caves and the main shrine of Lord Murugan.

An overview of the area from the staircase.

The first cave and the temple in that. For reaching the main shrine one has to climb another flight of few stairs

The main shrine , the cave is open to sky.

Another view of the first and the bigger cave.

All the pics @sunderiyer. 

kalinjar fort

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  As our vehicle entered Kalinjar fort from it's Parmala gate, on the way we could see two or three buildings, structure of a gate in another direction and scattered jungles of thorny bushes.

                                       Parmala gate --- A view from outside
                              Picture by Sunder Iyer.

This damaged sculpted piece on platform, outside the Parmala gate ---Veraha, near Parmala gate.  Picture by Sunder Iyer. 




 Running on well laid road driver ultimately stopped the vehicle at a far end on the western side of fort and told us that from that point we have to walk to reach the Neelkanth temple. Sitting in U.P. tourism guest house at Chitrakoot, our programme to visit Kalinjar fort was made on the spur of the moment. We did not have much time in hand to do a bit of research on the place before visiting it. Hence we relied on the driver, who was a local boy. we literally have no idea what to expect and believe me this ignorance turned out to be a boon. our joy and amazement on what we found was enhanced manifold as we went there without any preformed expectations, though we missed visiting the museum in the fort premises due to not being aware of it. Any way Neel kanth temple is worth visiting for it's sake only.
It was Somwati Amavsya day during Chaitra Navratri hence many pilgrims, local people thronged the premises. It is considered to be very auspicious to visit this temple on Amavsya day. I really wish to visit the temple one more time preferably on a day when lesser number of people are there. I feel the rocks, the images engraved on rocks and the entire ambience will make me harmonise with the soul of the place more deeply when silence reigns all around.

A view of temple premises from a height. Ganesha, carved on wall, the fortification wall, the big temple compound. Picture by Sunder Iyer.



Neelkanth temple is located on the western slope of Kalinjar fort. The main shrine is in a big bowl like deep valley. The shrine is in a natural somewhat octagonal cave. To reach this we have to descent down many steps. On one side of the stairs is the fortification wall and on other are rocky hills. These rocks have many small enclosures having different deities and other spiritual, mythological images. All around the rocks have beautifully carved images. It is like an open air art gallery. Go on walking up and down on the rocks and you are sure to find  amazingly embellished images almost every where.

nu

                                                 Picture by Sunder Iyer.  Vishnu patta

Panel over a cave on the side of steps. Picture by Sunder Iyer

                             Images of Ram, Sita, Laxman, Picture by Sunder Iyer

Mahasadashiva, saivacharya and devotees. Picture by Sunder Iyer

 

On extreme left is Parvati or Dhanlaxmi as it has two elephants.

                                        Picture by sunder Iyer

                                                      Navgrah panel. Picture by Sunder Iyer.

Mukhalingas, Picture by Sunder Iyer



In front of the sanctum sanctorum stands the remains of a big mandap. Presently this mandap has a raised octagonal platform. Sixteen pillars run along its periphery . This mandap is open to sky. around the sixteen pillars runs an octagonal gallery, which is supported by pilasters forming outer wall of mandap. All the pillars, pilasters are richly decorated with beautiful designs and images of ratikas. May be earlier this entire octagonal mandap was covered with a roof but presently it's open. The pillars are placed at the angles of octagon   and they support the architraves forming an octagon. A vedika is there at the center of the platform. On that particular day many people were conducting hawans there. The scared fire leapt and danced in the kund. Smoke rising from vedika swirled and twirled to vanish ultimately in the air above. It was as if carrying the prayers of devotees to heaven. Fragrance emanating from various offerings to the sacred fire filled the air. Chants of shlokas and prayers echoed all around. Some were busy in rituals while others sat silently,eyes closed, lost in another world/inner world. Overhead blue sky peered down showering it's grace on one and all.

The octagonal mandap. Picture by Sunder Iyer



The cave housing Lord Neelkantha is entered through a door cut into original cave. The facade of cave is richly carved having ornamental images of dancing girls, musicians and other deities. Neelkantha is in the form of Mukhlinga. The special feature of this image of neelkantha is that it's kanth i.e. neck portion is always wet. From somewhere in between the rocks, water continuously trickle down to keep the neck wet permanently. And perhaps this has imparted a bluish tint to the this portion of idol, as if justifying the name neelkantha. To the left of this Neelkantha mukhalinga is another mukhalinga which is popularly known as Kartikeya.

   Santum sanctoram, neelkanth bhagwan .Picture by Sunder Iyer


At the roof level of the cave housing neelkantha is a water reservoir known as swargrohna. The water is covered with rock supported by five solid pillars cut out of rock. It has a narrow opening on western side. we can go down to reach water. there are steps cut on two sides to reach water.

Swargarohan, water reservoir. Picture by Sunder Iyer




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I have seen the angels coming down from night sky and enter those images on the rocks-- the seers, the devotees, Gods and Goddesses all. I understand these are not just the pieces of art but infused with faith and devotion. Picture by sunder Iyer

On the sacred threshold I found myself, experienced the joy of being one with oneself. Picture by Sunder Iyer

The holy scented smoke calls me to rise above the earth, to join the world beyond, up there, to new heights, finding liberation.....Picture by Sunder Iyer



All pictures @sunder Iyer


Location -- Kalinjar, Banda, Uttar Pradesh. About 80 km from Chitrakoot and 130 from Khajuraho, around 60 from Banda.

Height--  244 meters above plain on Vindhya Ranges

Vehicles go inside fort but for reaching sanctum of Neelkanth temple one has to walk down steps. steps are in good condition. Better to leave place before it is dark.
 

Ganesh bagh, chitrakoot.

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Chitrakoot and around is steeped in religious and mythological anecdotes. This is the place where Lord Rama spent eleven out of his fourteen years of exile. Amidst old, new, big, small temples and other places of religious importance, about eleven kilometers from Karwi, a bit away from the main road,on Allahabad Chitrakoot road lies Ganesh Bagh, a page from history, a witness to Peshwas ties with Bundelkhand region. It is said to be built in 1880s.
 Ganesh Bagh was perhaps created as a recreation retreat. The premises  has an ornately carved Shiva temple with various unique features , a seven storeyed step well, a big pond with steps and cenotaphs around it, few more smaller enclosures, a palace, remains of few other buildings and wide open space which is now being converted into lawns and gardens.
when Peshwa king Vinayak Rao chose this secluded place to built his resting retreat it's location was perhaps the deciding factor. Even today the quiet serenity of the place has a balmy impact on the tired mind and nerves. Mighty Vindhya range stands  as a backdrop and all around Ganesh Bagh are fields, trees and far flung villages with few mud houses. The pastoral beauty is soothing. 
The seven storey step well or Baoli is the first structure after entering the gate. We wandered around  in the colonnaded arcades and passages of it's top most story only though we could see two more stories below that . These were out of water level. One more story ,submerged in water too was visible. However the stories below that could not be seen. There was a narrow  canal like opening through which deep down  water could be seen in a long stretch. From the front end steps ran down and on both the sides of gap ran covered colonnaded verandah. In between at regular distances horizontal platforms connected verandahs of both the sides. On the farthest end was a huge circular well like structure. This too had water in it. The well had circular covered verandah around it . Remnants of water drainage system could be seen in this verandah. Perhaps the area was used  by royal women for bathing etc. On one side a small door opened to the open space on other side of wall of step well. A loan huge mango tree stood in the open space. May be a garden or full fledged mango groove was there in the bygone days. The step well, it's structure, design and continuous presence of water altogether form an amazing cooling system to bear the scorching heat of Bundelkhand. The step well is an amazing feet of engineering with perfect synchronisation with nature. At that time also they catered to all the comforts, luxuries and needs of people but always maintained an ecological balance. Nature was given an important place in the scheme of things. And here are we, creating havoc in the name of development.

Arcades of step well

The well at the end of colonnaded passages

The circular verandah around the well and the door leading to open space outside the walls

Shiva temple stands on a raised platform. At one end of this covered colonnaded verandah are three chambers with stone door frames  which had beautifully carved images of various Gods and Goddesses. On some of these images sea blue, pink, maroon colours still can be seen. none of these three chamber has any deity in the sanctum. No worship or daily rituals are performed here but local people throng the temple during Shravan month and on the occasion of Shivratri. Floor of the verandah running in front of these chambers is very interesting. Two games chaupar and ludo were engraved on the floor. verandahs I have seen in front of temples. Devotees sit there chanting, singing bhajans, offering prayers but indoor games!Well that was something unique. On the other end of verandah staircases from both the sides lead to the roof top. few feets ahead the verandah culminates into an oval small pond shaped structure. Not exactly of size to be called as pond, rather a stone tub would be more appropriate. This too was covered. For what purpose this could have been used. During those times this definitely must have been filled with water. Were there lotuses blooming or women used to sit their dainty feet dipped in water! Well , I was earlier talking about those staircases leading to rooftop. Reaching the rooftop one can even touch the ornately carved Shikharas of temples.Nowhere else have I ever been in such close proximity with Shikharas of temples. The richly carved shikharas display images of various gods , goddesses, mythological creatures,animals and some erotic figures too. This open rooftop was connected to palace through passages. In front of Shikhara on a small covered platform sat Ganesha. That may be one reason that the temple is popular as Ganesha temple among locals even though the main deity was Shiva. View from rooftop is beautiful. If it is the time of year when rains paint countryside in all shades of green and far away hills appear to be enveloped in misty blue, I am sure sitting there on rooftop listening to the sounds of silence can turn out be an unforgettable experience.

                                An overview of Shiva temple

Sun God showering it's grace

carvings and embellishments on temple walls.

indoor games etched on floor of temple verandah

                       Intricately carved Shikharas of temple

Another beauty of Ganesh bagh is the big pond near the temple. steps from all the four sides lead to water . The pond is square in shape. Few cenotaphs around the pond were still intact though indications were apparent that there were more such structures around the pond.

 

          The pond in front of temple



Ganesh Bagh is ASI protected monument. Premises are neat, clean . Whatever structures have survived the vagaries of times and humans , those are maintained.
If you love soluted, history, architecture and nature, you should not miss out on Ganesh Bagh , more so if you happen to be in the vicinity.

September, October  or January, February is the best time as the natural, pastoral beauty is at it's best during those months.
Ganesh Bagh should be visited during day time only. It is more convient to have one's own vehicle. However from Chitrakoot or Karvi you can hire full auto etc. Public transport is not available on the route. 

All pictures by Sunder Iyer.